Tekstilec 4/2014

Department of Textile Technology, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar-144011, Punjab, India

Original Scientific Article

Received 10-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

PhD Sujit Kumar Sinha

E-mail: sinhask@nitj.ac.in

Abstract

The structural modification of yarn is opening up new fields of application. In the present study, the structure of polyester/polyvinyl alcohol (PVAL) blended ring spun yarns was modified with a dissolution of PVAL, while the yarns were prepared using various percentage of the PVAL fibre. The elastic recovery and elastic performance coefficient (EPC) were measured before and after the dissolution of PVAL for a comparative assessment. Fibre fineness and twist multiplier were also selectively altered to study the effect. The experiments were carried out to study the elastic recovery at 2% and 4% extension, while EPC was calculated using 30% and 50% of breaking load of respective yarns. The t-test result confirmed some significant difference in EPC and recovery behaviour of the yarns on the modification through the removal of PVAL. Fibre fineness and applied twist were found to influence the behaviour. Modified yarns were found to exhibit improved elastic recovery properties.

Keywords: elastic recovery, elastic performance coefficient, polyester and PVAL fibres, ring spun yarn

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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 9-2014 • Accepted 10-2014

Corresponding author:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-mail: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

Abstract

In the research, the influence of dyeing with three reactive dyes Avitera SE, i.e. yellow, red and blue, on the functional properties of cotton fabrics finished with SiO₂ nanoparticles, hydro- and oleophobic finish (FAS) and the combination of both (SiO₂ + FAS) was studied. At the same time, the influence of applied finishes on the colour change of dyed cotton fabrics was studied as well. The presence of different finishes on cotton was studied using scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR). The hydro- and oleophobic properties of undyed and dyed cotton fabrics before and after washing were evaluated by measuring static contact angles of water and n-hexadecane, sliding water angles and estimation of oleophobicity according to AATCC 118-1966 T. The colorimetric properties of samples were studied before and after the application of finishes, after the washing and artificial illumination. The presence of finishes on cotton was confirmed with the FTIR and SEM results. Superhydrophobic properties were obtained in the case of all studied samples and were not affected by previous dyeing. Despite the application of SiO₂ nanoparticles, the samples did not obtain self-cleaning properties. Application of finishes led to oil repellency, which even slightly increased on the previously dyed samples. The finishes showed good washing resistance. The colour of undyed and dyed samples was strongly influenced by the presence of finishes. The FAS finish caused the darkening and yellowing of samples, while the SiO₂ finish influenced the colour change to blue, yellow and red, respectively. The dyed and finished samples had poor light fastness, which was visible from the colour differences results.

Keywords: reactive dyes, SiO₂ nanoparticles, FAS, sol-gel, lotus effect, oleophobicity

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¹Pokrajinski muzej Ptuj-Ormož, Muzejski trg 1, 2250 Ptuj

²Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 9-2014 • Accepted 10-2014

Corresponding author:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-mail: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

Abstract

The aim of the research was to examine the influence of the antimicrobial sol-gel finishing based on dimethyl-tetradecil-[3(trimethoxysilyl)propyl] ammonium chloride (Si-QAC ) on the colour and colour fastness of cotton (CO), silk (SE) and wool (WO) fabrics, which are mostly used in the conservation-restoration of historic textiles. The fabric CO was dyed with direct and reactive dyes, and with indigo, the fabric SE was dyed with the metal complex dyes and the fabric WO with the acid dyes. Yellow, red and blue colours were used. The Si-QAC agent was applied in two increasing concentrations. The dyed non-finished and finished samples of fabrics CO, SE and WO were artificially illuminated in Xenotest, and repeatedly washed in Launder-Ometer. Colour differences were determined between illuminated and non-illuminated as well as washed and non-washed samples and consequently statistically evaluated with the multifactor analysis of variance, ANOVA. The results show that the presence of the coating resulted in the colour change of all studied samples. The coating presence significantly impaired the lightfastness of dyeings, but did not significantly affect the washing fastness of dyeings. Colour fastness was importantly influenced by the dye structure.

Keywords: natural fibres, antimicrobial finishing, influence of the coating on colour, washing fastness of dyeings, light fastness of dyeings

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¹Istanbul Technical University, Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, Istanbul, Inon. Cad. No. 65, 34437, Turkey

²Pädagogische Hochschule Wien, Institut für Berufsbildung, Mode- und Designpädagogik, Grenzakcerstraße 18, A-1100 Wien, Austria

Scientific Review

Received 10-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Simona Jevšnik

E-mail: simonajevsnik@gmail.com

Abstract

3D computer technologies are closely linked to all textile fields ranging from the designing and constructing of fabrics and garments, virtual human body presentations, interactive virtual prototyping to virtual fashion shows and e-trading. This paper offers a review of frequently used methods for fabric simulation. The review is divided into two parts. The first part of the paper comprises currently used techniques, followed by the presentation of basic terms and fabric parameters required for fabric simulations. The second part discusses the approaches and methods for constructing computer models of fabrics. In conclusion, the list of used techniques and parameters for defining a computer fabric model are presented together with given future guidance.

Keywords: CAD/CAM in textiles, fabric simulations, fabric models

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¹Busitema University, Uganda, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Textile and Ginning Engineering, P. O. Box 236, Tororo, Busitema, Uganda

²Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Department of Material Engineering, Studentská 2, 461 17 Liberec 1, Czech Republic

Original Scientific Article

Received 10-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

Samson Rwawiire

E-mail: rbsjunior@gmail.com

Abstract

Globally, sustainable materials that are environmentally friendly and the path towards sustainable development are needed. Natural plant fibre utilization in various industries has seen a surge, especially in the automotive sector. Natural fibres such as from Sansevieria and banana pseudostem are readily available and have considerable mechanical properties that make them good candidates for reinforcement epoxy resins. The dynamic mechanical properties (DMA) of Sansevieria (Sansevieria trifasciata) and banana pseudostem (Musa sapientum) woven fibre epoxy composites are discussed. The results show that the optimum temperature range of application of the Sansevieria and banana epoxy composites is up to 50 °C. The glass transition temperature, T_g, obtained from the curves of mechanical damping factor (tan δ) was 100 °C and 120 °C for Sansevieria and banana fibre epoxy composites, respectively.

Keywords: DMA, Sansevieria trifasciata, banana fibre, Musa sapientum, epoxy composite

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¹University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana
²University of Primorska, Faculty of Humanities, Titov trg 5, 6000 Koper

Scientific Review

Received 08-2014 • Accepted 11-2014

Corresponding author:

Tijana Todorović

Tel. 00 386 41 530 780

E-mail: tijanaart@gmail.com

Abstract

Clothing presents an inseparable part of the human body. Linking art with clothing synthesizes the spiritual and social nature of human conduct, and it also creates metaphors and symbolic relationships in the anthropogenic environment. The aim of this synthetic view is to help us understand our internal worlds. The body represents the only support or shelter that a person (or humankind) can rely on. Through clothing, a person can make their first step in non-verbal communication towards the world. Clothing not only shows our appearance, but also represents our interior world. We attract attention with the help of our clothing. With apparel, we communicate with others, express acceptance or rejection, or collective attitudes in relation to understanding something that is likeable, sociable, moral etc. Clothing can be interpreted as a transmission of information between a carrier and recipient through symbolic messages in the general or specific scope of the clothing culture. In such open communication, a person creates their individuality through appearance. Messages and information about ourselves are visually sent and received.

Keywords: clothing and its importance, culture, subculture, modern clothing, communication, sign of affiliation, form, function, clothing and semiotics, costume

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