Tekstilec, Vol. 58, 2015(3)

  

CONTENTS

 

SCIENTIFIC ARTICLES

 

168      New Approach for Optimising the Impregnations of Individual Batches of Aramid Fabrics

………..Natalja Fjodorova*, Marjana Novič*, Tamara Diankova**, Olga Baskova** Abstract and References

*National Institute of Chemistry, Laboratory of Chemometrics, Hajdrihova 19, SI-1000 Ljubljana

**St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design, Department of Chemical Engineering and Textile Design, Bolshaya Morskaya Str. 18, RU-191186, St. Petersburg, Russia

Original Scientific Article

Received 04-2015 • Accepted 07-2015

 

Corresponding author:

D.Sc. Natalja Fjodorova

Phone: +386 1 4760441

E-mail: natalja.fjodorova@ki.si

 

Abstract

Innovate textile materials for special clothing are intended for providing trauma protection for the wearer. Fabrics made from high performance aramid fibres are widely used nowadays for manufacturing athletic sportswear for extreme sports due to their high specific tensile modulus and strength. The aim of our study was to illustrate a new approach when searching for optimal settings for impregnating individual batches of textile materials on the basis of para aramid fibres. We demonstrate a feed-forward bottleneck (FFBN) neural network mapping technique that makes it possible to see all optima (optimal settings for best quality) in the studied process. The selections of optimal settings are based on making decisions allowing us to choose optimal settings for processes in relation to the best quality and smallest (minimal) expense. This new approach can be applied for searching optimal settings regarding different chemical treatments. If a standard statistical regression model (in the cases of non-linear relationships) experiences lack of fit, it can be successfully substituted with the FFBN neural network mapping technique. This method can also be recommended as a double check of a studied process when we use other approaches.

Keywords: aramid fabrics, optimisation, impregnation, feed-forward bottleneck neural network, design of experiment

 

References

  1. Alchemie Group home page [online], [accessed 22. 4. 2015]. Available on Word Wide Web: <http://alchemie-group.com/core-materials-technology/autx-aramid-fibre/compliance/>.
  2. KIM, Hyun Ah and KIM, Seung Jin. Physical properties of para-aramid/nylon hybrid air textured yarns for protective clothing. Fibers and Polymers, 2014, 15(11), 2428–2436, doi: 10.1007/s12221-014-2428-5.
  3. ZHENG, Huanda and ZHENG, Laijiu. Dyeing of meta-aramid fibers with disperse dyes in supercritical carbon dioxide. Fibers and Polymers, 2014, 15(8), 1627–1634, doi: 10.1007/s12221-014-1627-4.
  4. BILISIK, Kadir. Experimental determination of yarn pull-out properties of para-aramid (Kevlar®) woven fabric. Journal of Industrial Textiles January, 2012 41(3), 201–221, doi: 10.1177/1528083711413411.
  5. UPPAL, Rohit, RAMASWAMY, Gita N. and LOUGHIN, Thomas. A novel method to assess degree of crystallinity of aramid filament yarns. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 43(1), 3–19, doi: 10.1177/1528083712444648.
  6. LIN, Lantian, SHEN, Yiping and ZHANG, Qiuping. Analysis of environmental impact on mechanical properties of aramid filaments. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 42(4), 489–500, doi: 10.1177/1528083712446383.
  7. PARK, Jong Lyoul, YOON, Byung Il, PAIK, Jong Gyu and KANG, Tae Jin. Ballistic performance of p-aramid fabrics impregnated with shear thickening fluid. Part I – Effect of laminating sequence. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 82(6), 527–541, doi: 10.1177/0040517511420753.
  8. ZIELINSKA, Dorota, DELCZYK-OLEJNICZAK, Bogumila, WIERZBICKI, Lukasz, WILBIK-HAŁGAS, Bożena, STRUSZCZYK, Marcin Henryk and LEONOWICZ, Marcin. Investigation of the effect of para-aramid fabric impregnation with shear thickening fluid on quasi-static stab resistance. Textile Research Journal, 2014, 84 (15), 1569–1577, doi:10.1177/0040517514525881.
  9. LI, Ting-Ting, WANG, Rui, LOU, Ching Wen and LIN, Jia-Horng. Evaluation of high-modulus, puncture-resistance composite nonwoven fabrics by response surface methodology. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 43(2), 247–263, doi: 10.1177/1528083712452900.
  10. ZHIYING, Cui, YANMIN, Wan and WEIYUAN, Zhang. Thermal protective performance and moisture transmission of firefighter protective clothing based on orthogonal design. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2010, 39(4), 347–356, doi: 10.1177/1528083709347126.
  11. LEE, Kyulin and CHO, Gilsoo. The optimum coating condition by response surface methodology for maximizing vapor-permeable water resistance and minimizing frictional sound of combat uniform fabric. Textile Research Journal, 2014, 84(7), 684–693, doi: 10.1177/0040517513509870.
  12. SARAVANA, kumar T. and SAMPATH, V. R. Prediction of dimensional properties of weft knitted cardigan fabric by artificial neural network system. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2013, 42(4), 446–458, doi: 10.1177/1528083712444296.
  13. BEHERA, B. K. and GOYAL, Y. Artificial neural network system for the design of airbag fabrics. Journal of Industrial Textiles, 2009, 39(1), 45–55, doi: 10.1177/1528083708093335.
  14. KRAMER, Mark A. Nonlinear principal component analysis using autoassociative neural networks. AIChE Journal, 1991, 37(2), 233–243, doi: 10.1002/aic.690370209.
  15. NOVIČ, Marjana and GROŠELJ, Neva. Bottle-neck type of neural network as a mapping device towards food specifications. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2009, 649(1), 68–74, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2009.07.018.
  16. DASZYKOWSKI, M., WALCZAK, B. and MASSART, D.L. A journey into low-dimensional spaces with autoassociative neural networks. Talanta, 2003, 59(6), 1095–1105, doi: 10.1016/S0039-9140(03)00018-3.
  17. DASZYKOWSKI, M., WALCZAK, B. and MASSART, D.L. Projection methods in chemistry. Chemometrics and Intelligent Laboratory Systems, 2003, 65(1), 97–112, doi: 10.1016/S0169-7439(02)00107-7.
  18. LIVINGSTONE, D. J., HESKETH, G. and CLAYWORTH, D. Novel method for the display of multivariate data using neural networks. Journal of Molecular Graphics, 1991, 9(2), 115–118, doi: 10.1016/0263-7855(91)85008-M.
  19. KOCJANČIČ, Robert and ZUPAN, Jure. Application of a feed-forward artificial neural network as a mapping device. Journal of Chemical Information and Modeling, 1997, 37 (6), 985–989, doi: 10.1021/ci970223h.
  20. FJODOROVA, Natalja, NOVIČ, Marjana and DIANKOVA, Tamara. Optimization of pigment dyeing process of high performance fibers using feed-forward bottleneck neural networks mapping technique. Analytica Chimica Acta, 2011, 705(1–2), 148–154, doi: 10.1016/j.aca.2011.04.041.
  21. High-performance fibres. Edited by J. W. S. Hearle. Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing, 2001, pp. 329, doi: 10.1533/9781855737549.

177      Structures and Colours of Coptic Textiles from the National Museum of Slovenia

………..Gojka Pajagič Bregar*, Matejka Bizjak** Abstract and References

*National Museum of Slovenia, Prešernova 20, SI-100 Ljubljana

** University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 04-2015 • Accepted 08-2015

 

Corresponding author:

Assoc. Prof. D.Sc. Mateja Bizjak

Phone: +386 1 200 32 19

E-mail: mateja.bizjak@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

The Coptic fabrics held by the National Museum of Slovenia in Ljubljana were made in Egypt between the 3rd and 10th centuries AD. These textiles are of historical and archaeological value as they were preserved in graves over the centuries. The analysed artefacts were once part of a range of textile uses such as tunics, covers, headgear, curtains, scarves, and cushions. The theoretical part of this paper describes their basic constructional features and presents an overview of the natural dyes used for the wool. Only non-destructive research methods have been used as the textiles were found to be so delicate and due to their historic significance. In the experimental part the NOVEX stereomicroscope with a digital camera CMEX-5000 was used for observing the colours and determining the woven structures, thread density and other constructional features connected with the weaving. Simulation and reconstruction of one design were carried out on the basis of constructional data.

Keywords: Coptic fabrics, woven structure, thread density, natural dyes, and simulation

 

References

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  19. BRUNS, Margarete. Von rotem Ocker. Kermesläsen und Purpurschnecken. V: Ein Buch von alten Farben. München: Moss & Partner, 1989, str. 7–13.
  20. NAUERTH, Claudia, AHRENS, Dieter, KIRCHER, Ursula, LEWIS, Suzanne. Koptische Textilkunst im spätantiken Ägypten. Die Sammlung Rautenstrauch im Städtischen Museum Simeonstift Trier. Trier: Spee-Verlag, 1978, str. 20.
  21. BOŽIČ, Mojca, KOKOL, Vanja. Redukcijska barvila: konvencionalni postopek barvanja in ekološke alternative. Tekstilec, 2006, 49(1–3), 8–15.
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191      The Influence of Mordanting with Silver Nitrate on The Dyeability and UV Protection

………..of Cotton Dyed with Green Tea

………..Marija Gorjanc, Rosana Sluga Štih, Iris Vrhovski, Monika Curk Abstract and References

University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 06-2015 • Accepted 07-2015

 

Corresponding author:

Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Marija Gorjanc

Phone: +386 1 2003256

E-mail: marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

Silver nitrate (AgNO3) was used as a mordant for dyeing cotton fabric with natural dyes. Due to the high concentrations of catechin and tannin, green tea was used as a natural dye. The green tea extraction was performed under neutral and alkaline conditions. Four molar concentrations of AgNO3 were used, namely 1, 5, 10 and 50 mM. Mordanting was performed during dyeing with green tea extracts. The colour (CIE L*a*b* values) and UV protection factor (UPF) of the dyed cotton samples before and after ten repetitive washings were measured spectrophotometrically. The results revealed that with the increase of the molar concentration of AgNO3, the samples became darker, redder and bluer. Dyeing with alkaline green tea extract was not as successful as dyeing with neutral green tea extract. Different shades of cotton were achieved when dyeing with neutral green tea extract and mordanting with different molar concentrations of AgNO3. Using 50mM AgNO3 achieved a very dark grey (almost black) colour. Cotton samples dyed with neutral green tea extract had excellent UV protective properties (50+), some even after washing.

Keywords: dyeing, green tea, mordanting, silver nitrate, colours, UV protection.

 

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199      The Influence of Mordanting on the Dyeability of Cotton Dyed with Turmeric Extract

………..Irena Mulec, Marija Gorjanc Abstract and References

University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 04-2015 • Accepted 07-2015

 

Corresponding author:

Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Marija Gorjanc

Phone: +386 1 2003256

E-mail: marija.gorjanc@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

The dyeability of cotton fabric with turmeric extract in two concentrations (pale and dark dyeing) was studied using four different mordants in low concentration (0.2 g/l). As mordants three metal salts were used as mordants (ferrous sulphate, aluminium sulphate and zinc chloride), and organic mordant tannin. The mordanting of cotton was performed before, during and after dyeing, namely by pre-, meta-, and post-mordanting application methods. Colour fastness of dyed samples to repetitive washing and hot pressing was also performed. The colour values of the dyed samples were measured on a reflectance spectrophotometer. The results showed that the dyeability of the cotton with turmeric extract is greatly influenced by the used mordant and its application method. The highest dyeing uptake (dyeability) was achieved by pre-mordanting with aluminium sulphate. All the mordanted samples had improved colour fastness, especially those samples meta-mordanted with ferrous sulphate.

Keywords: cotton, turmeric, curcuma, mordant, natural dyeing, dyeability

 

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209      Treatment of Wastewater Contaminated with Screen Printing Ink

………..Maja Klančnik in Meta Batista Abstract and References

University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 05-2015 • Accepted 08-2015

 

Corresponding author:

Assist. Prof. D.Sc. Maja Klančnik

Phone: +386 1 200 32 64

E-mail: maja.klancnik@ntf.uni-lj.si

 

Abstract

Three different samples of wastewater contaminated with screen printing inks of cyan, magenta, and yellow colour were prepared in two concentrations. The wastewaters were treated with coagulation and flocculation, and comparatively with adsorption. Different concentrations of powdered activated carbon, granulated activated carbon and ground orange peel as an example of cheap and biodegradable adsorbent, were used for adsorption treatment. The efficiencies of the wastewater treatments with coagulation, with a combination of coagulation and flocculation, and with adsorption were evaluated with colour removal of the wastewater by the use of a transmission spectrophotometer and with the removal of organic matter expressed as the total organic carbon (TOC) on the TOC analyzer. The results showed that treatment of the wastewater using coagulation achieved adequate colour reduction (average SAC values at 438 nm 1.2 m-1, at 525 nm 0.7 m-1 and at 620 nm 0.5 m-1), as well as adequate removal of organic matter (TOC values below 19 mg C/l) for discharging into the sewage system and surface waters. Further treatment with flocculation did not improve the efficiency of the wastewater treatment. The adsorption on the powdered activated carbon was a little more effective according to the removal of organic matter (TOC values below 3 mg C/l) than coagulation within the wastewaters contaminated with lower concentrations of printing ink, while coagulation was the more effective treatment method in those wastewaters contaminated with higher concentrations of printing ink. Activated granulated carbon proved to be a less efficient adsorbent than the powdered activated carbon. For example it was completely ineffective in the case of magenta printing ink. Ground orange peel was problematic for monitoring the effects of adsorption treatment due to its contribution to the colour and to its high value of total organic carbon (TOC). However, it was proven to be a more effective adsorbent than activated granulated carbon.

Keywords: screen printing ink, wastewater, treatment, coagulation, adsorption

 

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