Tekstilec 1/2016

*University for Teacher Education Vienna, Grenzackerstraße 18, AT-1100 Vienna

**INLAS d. o. o., Intelectual Property and Counseling d. o. o., Grajski trg 3, SI-3210 Slovenske Konjice

***University of Maribor, Faculty of Mechanical Engeneering, Institute of Engineering Materials and Design, Smetanova 17, SI-2000 Maribor

Original Scientific Article

Received 09-2015 • Accepted 12-2015

Corresponding author:

D.Sc. Jure Purgaj

E-mail: jure.purgaj@phwien.ac.at

Abstract

This article presents and introduces a new approach for researching into fashion, textile and clothing design. Following Christopher Alexander’s understanding of a pattern language the aim is to present and propose a pattern language which assists with the visualisations and designs of garments that use narrative, nonvisual forms as forms of inspiration. To visualise the descriptions of the Slovenian mythological creatures, a guided method for designing the garments was developed, based on fashion design practice and different proposed mythological patterns. Furthermore, the design components during the drawing process were defined and analysed. The abovementioned type of research is important in order to better understand the phases in the design process during drawing. On the basis of the gained results it can be concluded that the proposed pattern language and the guided method have great potential for creating new interdisciplinary knowledge. This developed method for visualising garments’ forms was tested on Slovenian mythological creatures but it could be used with any written texts. Moreover the method can also be used for educational purposes and further research into fashion design processes because it provides a classified environment that can be easily observed, analysed, and discussed.

Keywords: fashion design practice, visualisations, mythology, pattern language, narrative inspiration

References

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 05, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 11-2015 • Accepted 01-2016

Corresponding author:

Prof. D.Sc. Barbara Simončič

E-mail: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

Abstract

The aim of this study was to create the novel functional properties on polyamide 6 (PA 6) fabrics by the application of antimicrobially active AgCl particles and sol-gel finish with water- and oil-repellent properties. To increase adsorption abilities, the PA 6 fabric was treated by oxygen plasma for 30 seconds. Afterwards, in-situ synthesis ofAgCl particles was obtained by consecutive immersions of the fabric into 0.5mM solution of AgNO3 and NaCl, repeated twice. After drying 10% concentration of water- and oil-repellent perfluorotrialkoxysilane (FAS) was applied on the PA 6 fabric using the impregnation method. For comparison, dual-component finish was also applied on a PA 6 fabric without plasma-treatment. Using the same conditions, one-component finishes were prepared as well. The finished samples were washed five-times in a Launderometer at 40°C according to the standard method, whereas one washing cycle corresponded to five domestic washings. Functional properties were determined by measuring static contact angles of water and n-hexadecane, sliding angles of water, and by qualitative evaluations of microorganisms’ growths on the studied samples after deposition of raw milk. The results showed that plasma treatment and the application of finishes influenced the morphological and chemical properties of the fibres. AgCl particles, which were formed during in-situ synthesis, were clearly seen on the surfaces of the finished samples. The presence of FAS resulted in an increase of the static contact angles of the water and n-hexadecane, which led to the creation of hydrophobic and oleophobic properties of the fabric. The finished fabric did not show selfcleaning properties as sliding angles of water greater than 10° were obtained. The presence of the AgCl particles did not affect the repellent properties of the fabric but importantly influenced the growth reductions of the microorganisms on the fibres, which resulted in less intensive odour of the samples after the deposition of raw milk. On the other hand, the presence of FAS decreased leaching of silver into the surroundings, which influenced the increase of the washing durability of the AgCl particles and was thus reflected in the antimicrobial activity of the fibres even after five consecutive washings. This confirmed the synergistic activity of AgCl particles and FAS in dual- component finishing. Plasma treatment did not influence the adsorption ability of the fabric but did improve the adhesion of the studied finishes and thus significantly enhanced their washing durability on the PA 6 fabric.

Keywords: polyamide 6, water- and oil-repellency, antimicrobial activity, sol-gel, plasma, nano silver

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University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Graphic Arts and Design, Snežniška 05, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Original Scientific Article

Received 08-2015 • Accepted 02-2016

Corresponding author:

Asist. D.Sc. Tanja Nuša Kočevar

E-mail: tanja.kocevar@ntf.uni-lj.si

Abstract

The aim of the research was to analyse the influence of texture preparation for 3D visualisation of woven fabric porosity, i.e. the analysis of the lighting influence while taking photographs of a fabric and the analysis of histogram threshold methods for the alpha map preparation. We introduced the process for the 3D visualisation of porous textile structures, which included image information and image analysis for the generation of accurate information about pores. We analysed a woven fabric used for “rokavci”, which is a part of a folk costume originating from the Gorenjska region. The fabric with visible signs of being wornout is woven in plain weave and the pores between warp and weft threads are rather uneven considering their size and shape. For a realistic 3D visualisation, image information about pores is extremely important; therefore, the process of texture preparation for the 3D visualisation of fabric porosity was defined, including the process of image analysis and 3D visualisation. The fabric was photographed at 7 different lighting schemes. Using the application ImageJ for image analysis, the pictures were processed with 3 various threshold methods, i.e. Yen algorithm, the method for defining the local minimum between histogram peaks and the method with a manual (visual) definition of the threshold. As a result, various images – alpha maps – were obtained and used for the 3D visualisation of fabric porosity. We also implemented the image analysis of pore sizes, their number and the area coverage of pores. The results showed dependency of image information quality on the type and manner of lighting, where the type of lights was predominantly important (diffuse light, direct light), followed by the number of lights, their placement and their combination. Furthermore, it was also established that for the 3D visualisation of the fabric with a distinctly uneven structure, the use of alpha maps created with the method of manual (visual) definition of histogram threshold is the most suitable.

Keywords: woven fabric porosity, 3D visualisation, image analysis, alpha map, histogram threshold

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Faculty of Design, Associated member of University of Primorska, Prevale 10, SI-1236 Trzin

Professional Article

Received 10-2015 • Accepted 02-2016

Corresponding author:

Assist. Prof. Tanja Devetak

E-mail: tanja.devetak@siol.net

Abstract

The article Space in Fashion Design based on Architectural Works by Maks Fabiani has been prepared on the basis of the case study of the JF2 project (Fabiani Fashion) in which the architectural objects of Maks Fabiani and the understanding of space of the objects in historical context, aesthetical perception, psychological detection, social relations and stylistic manifestations are transferred into clothing forms. Space is a dimension which depends on the viewing angle of the observer. It has a material value (physical dimension) and a philosophical concept (abstract dimension). In the development of an architectural concept, unlike fashion design, the principle of universality is implemented, because the longevity of architecture is a very important factor. The JF2 case study (Fabiani Fashion) combines complex architectural and urban spatial solutions of Maks Fabiani in contemporary versions of wearable garments. It explores and transforms the architectural structures into visual images of clothing using creative construction techniques for creating forms on tailors’ dummy and for designing textile patterns. The resulting clothing forms visually articulate the meanings arising from the content inside the premises, historical context, personal sensory experiences and structures of architectural design work of the architect and urbanist Maks Fabiani. The JF2 case study (Fabiani Fashion) presents clothing design images that reflect inspirational influences of the selected architectural solutions of Maks Fabiani in Ljubljana, Slovenia. The selected architectural and urban solutions include Hribar House, Bamberg House, Krisper House, Jakopič Pavillion, City Almshouse and Miklošič Park.

Keywords: space, fashion, architecture, Maks Fabiani, creative construction

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