Tekstilec 2/2014

Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, SI-1000 Ljubljana

Pregledni znanstveni članek
Prispelo 03-2014 • Sprejeto 03-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:
dr. Tanja Podbevšek
E-pošta: tanja.podbevsek@ntf.uni-lj.si

Izvleček

Sistem za razvoj temeljnih krojev oblačil, ki je podlaga za kakovostno izdelavo krojev modela, je nepogrešljiv element v proizvodnji vsakega oblačilnega podjetja. V praksi je še vedno najpogostejša uporaba katerega od t. i. tradicionalnih sistemov. Vsebuje celostna navodila za razvoj oblik krojnih delov oblačil, ki pri šivanju iz dvodimenzionalnih tekstilnih površin tvorijo tridimenzionalno obliko, ki se bolj ali manj prilega telesu nosilca oblačila. Sodobnih konstrukcijskih sistemov je na trgu veliko. Slovenska oblačilna industrija pogosto uporablja katerega od nemških sistemov (t. i. Müllerjev sistem), medtem ko v Nemčiji srečamo več različnih sistemov, ki so drugačni od tistih v Veliki Britaniji, Italiji ali Madžarski itd. V prispevku je narejena primerjava različnih sodobnih sistemov za razvoj temeljnih krojev oblačil različnih avtorjev. Primerjava je narejena na področjih metodologij antropometričnega merjenja telesa, oznak velikosti oblačil/preglednic mer, formul za izračun sekundarnih telesnih mer iz primarnih in metod razvoja krojev oblačil, ki se kažejo v različnih oblikah krojnih delov in njihovega dimenzijskega prileganja obliki telesa. Razlike so velike, številne in pomembne. Razvoj konstrukcijskih sistemov v prihodnosti bo zasnovan na računalniško podprtih konstrukcijskih sistemih z zajemom podatkov s 3D elektronskimi skenerji. Ti omogočajo hitrejše zbiranje podatkov o dimenzijah, oblikah in držah teles potencialnih uporabnikov oblačil in posledično boljše prilagajanje krojev/oblačil njihovim postavam.

Ključne besede: konstrukcijski sistem, razvoj temeljnih krojev oblačil, oblačilna antropometrija, preglednica mer, metode razvoja kroja

Reference

1. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Clothing pattern construction systems – the future perspective. V 2nd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2004, 580–585.
2. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Garment anthropometry – a challenge for the future. V 2nd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2004, 574–579.
3. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Pattern construction of the skirt as related to the female body shape. V 2nd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2004, 568−573.
4. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. The measurement of the body rise in the trousers pattern construction. V5th World Textile Conference AUTEX 2005 : Book of Proceedings. Portorož, 2005, 677–682.
5. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Anthropometric measuremetn methodology of the trousers’ length. V 37th International Symposium on Novelties in Textiles : Book of Proceedings. Editor B. Simončič in sod.. Ljubljana : Faculty for Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, University of Ljubljana, 2006.
6. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Influence of the body posture on the pattern construction of the close fitted dress. V 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2006, 489−494.
7. CHEN, Chin-Man, CHIEN, Shih. Analysis of upper physical characteristics based on angle measurements. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 81(3), 301−310, doi: 10.1177/0040517510380781.
8. SONG, Hwa Kyung, ASHDOWN, P. Susan. Categorization of lower body shapes for adult females based on multiple view analysis. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 81(9), 914−931, doi: 10.1177/0040517510392448.
9. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Aesthetic appearance – Distance between vertical darts. V 3rd International Textile, Clothing & Design Conference : Book of Proceedings. Editor Z. Dragčević. Dubrovnik : Faculty of Textile Tehnology, University of Zagreb, 2006, 883–887.
10. HULME, W.H. “Women’s and Children’s Garment Design”. London : The National Trade Press Limited, 1948, 204.
11. KUNC, Teodor. Toaleta. Ljubljana : Samozaložba Teodor Kunc, 1933.
12. STIEGLER, Margarethe. Schnittkonstruktionen für Kleider und Blusen. München : Rundschau-Verlag Otto G. Königer GmbH & Co., 1997.
13. ALDRICH, Winifred. Metric Pattern Cutting, 4th edition. Blackwell Science, 2004, 308.
14. DI RIENZO, Sebastiano. La tecnica della moda. Padova : Grafiche Muzzio Spa, 1992.
15. SAROLTA, Deakfalvi. Szabás – Szakrajz I.. Budapest : Sokszorositó – Könyvkötő Üzeme 1969.
16. GUSEV. Raskroj in pošiv ženskih paljto, Moskva, 1962.
17. CEREMNYH, A. I. Osnovy hudoženstvennogo proektirovanija odeždy. Moskva : Legkaja industrija, 1977.
18. GREGORČIČ, Suzana, RUDOLF, Andreja, ABRAM-ZVER, Marta. Research on woman’s dress fitting designed from different construction systems. V 3rd Scientific-Professional Conference Textile Science and Economy (TNP 2011) : proceedings. Zrenjanin, Technical Faculty “Mihajlo Pupin”, 2011.
19. Size designation of clothes – Definitions and body measurement procedure, Standard ISO 3635:1981.
20. Garment construction and anthropometric surveys – Body dimensions, Standard ISO 8559:1989.
21. FEKETΈNΈ H. E. Női szabó szakrajz. Budapest : Műszaki Könyvkiadó, 1983.
22. BRAY, Natalie, HAGGAR, Ann. Dress Pattern Designing. 5th edition. Blackwell Publishing Limited, 2003, 176.
23. MCCUNN, H. Donald. How to Make Sewing Patterns. Reprint edition. San Francisco : Design Enterprises of San Francisco, 1977.
24. COOKLIN, Gerry. Master Patterns and Grading for Women’s Outsizes: Pattern Sizing Technology. Blackwell Science, 1995, 128.
25. COOKLIN, Gerry. Pattern Cutting for Women’s Outerwear. Blackwell Publishing, 1994, 192.
26. KUNICK, Philip. Modern sizing and pattern making for women’s and children’s garments: A scientific study in pattern construction and a standard textbook for the clothing industry. Philip Kunick Publications, 1984, 178.
27. STIEGLER, Margarete, KROOLOPP Luise. Schnittkonstruktionen für Jacken und Mäntel. München : Rundschau-Verlag Otto G. Königer GmbH & Co., 1994, 112.
28. UJEVIĆ, Darko, ROGALE, Dubravko, HRASTINSKI, Marijan, GERŠAK, Jelka, DRAGČEVIĆ, Zvonko, ESERT, Mario, KOREN, Tomislav. Tehnike konstruiranja i modeliranja odjeće. Zagreb : Tekstilno-tehnološki fakultet Sveučilišta u Zagrebu, 2000, 338.
29. UJEVIĆ, Darko, SZIROVICZA, Lajos, DIMEC, Mirjana. Prikaz istraživanja i usporedbe sustava odjevnih veličina. Tekstil, 2003, 52(12), 611–620.
30. ČUK, Francka. Razmerja v antropometriji in konfekciji. Tekstilec, 1994, 37(1–2), 20–23.
31. Označevanje velikosti oblačil – 3. del: Mere in koraki, Standard SIST EN 13402-3:2005.
32. Schnittkonstruktionen für Röcke und Hosen – System M.Müller & Sohn. München : Rundschau-Verlag Otto G. Königer GmbH & Co, 1996.
33. PODBEVŠEK, Tanja. Comparison of the Pattern construction of the female blouse by two contemporary construction systems. V 5th International Conference IN-TECH-ED ’05 : Book of Proceedings. Budapest : Budapest Tech, Rejtő Sándor Faculty of Light Industry Engineering, 2005, 367–374.
34. CHOI, Sunyoon, ASHDOWN, P. Susan. 3D body scan analysis of dimensional change in lower body measurements for active body positions. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 81(1), 81−93, doi: 10.1177/0040517510377822.

¹Univerza v Borasu, Švedska šola za tekstilstvo, Bryggaregatan 17, 501 90 Boras, Švedska
²Univerza v Borasu, Šola za inženirstvo, Allegatan 1, 501 90 Boras, Švedska
³PoliMaT, Center odličnosti polimerni materiali in tehnologije, Tehnološki park 24, 1000 Ljubljana
⁴Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za strojništvo, Inštitut za inženirske material in oblikovanje, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor 

Izvirni znanstveni članek
Prispelo 02-2014 • Sprejeto 02-2014 

Korespondenčna avtorica:
Prof. Dr. Bojana Vončina
E-pošta: bojana.voncina@um.si

Izvleček

V svetu se soočamo s vse večjimi okoljskimi izzivi. Velik ekološki problem so onesnaženost ozračja in odlagališča odpadkov. Izdelek na koncu svojega življenjskega cikla pristane bodisi na odlagališču odpadkov bodisi ga sežgemo v sežigalnici. Oba načina odstranjevanja odpadkov sta zelo nevarna in tudi škodljiva za okolje. Izraz biorazgradnja je čedalje pomembnejši. Biorazgradljiv material je material, ki po naravni poti v relativno kratkem času razpade v enostavne snovi, kot so voda, ogljikov dioksid in biomasa, ki ne pomenijo nikakršne škode za okolje. V današnjem času je veliko raziskav usmerjenih v razvoj biorazgradljivih polimerov, ki bi po uporabi lahko preprosto “izginili”. Biorazgradljivost celuloznih in neceluloznih tekstilnih materialov smo študirali tako, da smo jih zakopali v zemljo. Takšne biorazgradljive tekstilne materiale je mogoče z maksimalno učinkovitostjo uporabiti v vsakdanjem življenju in jih lahko po uporabi brez težav in brez škodljivih vplivov na okolje zavržemo. Proučevali smo, kako s časom prihaja do razgradnje različnih celuloznih in neceluloznih tekstilnih materialov, kadar se le-ti uporabljajo za utrjevanje tal. Tako mikroskopska metoda kot tudi metoda vizualnega opazovanja biorazgradljivosti celuloznih tekstilnih materialov kaže podoben potek razgradnje teh materialov, edina razlika je v času biorazgradljivosti, medtem ko so necelulozni tekstilni materiali (volna) zaradi njene molekularne strukture in površine precej bolj odporni proti mikroorganizmom.

Ključne besede: biorazgradnja, kompostiranje, naravni tekstilni materiali, FT-IR

Viri

1. HAWLEY, M. Jana. Digging of Diamonds: A conceptual framework for understanding reclaimed textile products. Clothing and Textile Research Journal, 2006, 24(3), 262−275, doi: 10.1177/0887302X06294626.
2. FARRINGTON, D. W., LUNT, J., DAVIES, S., BLACKBURN, R. S. Poly(lactic acid) fibres. V Biodegradable and Sustainable Fibres. Edited by R. S. Blacburn. England : Woodhead Publishing, 2005, 191−220.
3. ALEXANDER, Martin. Biodegradation and bioremediation. 2nd edition. New York : Academic press, 1999, 453.
4. FALKIEWICZ-DULIK, Michalina, JANDA, Katarzyna, WYPYCH, George. Handbook of biodegradation, biodeterioration and biostabilization. Toronto : ChemTec Publishing, 2010, 250.
5. VAN DER ZEE, M., STOUTJESDIJK, J. H., VAN DER HEIJDEN, P. A. A. W., DE WIT, D. Structure-biodegradation relationships of polymeric materials. 1. Effect of degree of oxidation of carbohydrate polymers. Journal of Environmental Polymers Degradation, 1995, 3(4), 235-242, doi: 10.1007/BF02068678.
6. ZAIKOV, Gennady, SEMENOV, S. A., GUMARGALIEVA, K. Z. Biodegradation and durability of materials under the effect of microorganisms (new concepts in polymer science). 1st Edition. V.S.P. Intl Science, Zeist, 2003, 232.
7. WALKER, L. P., WILSON, D. B. Enzymatic Hydrolisis of Cellulose: An Overview. Bioresource Technology, 1991, 36(1), 3−14, doi: 10.1016/0960-8524(91)90095-2.
8. SALERNO-KOCHAN, R., SZOSTAK-KOTOWA, J. Biodegradation of Cellulose Textiles, Fibres and Textiles in Eastern Europe, 2001, 9, 69−72.
9. HEE PARK, Chung, KYUNG KAN, Yung, SOON IM, Seung. Biodegradabillity of Cellulose Fabrics. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2004, 94(1), 248−253, doi: 10.1002/app.20879.
10. TOMŠIČ, Brigita, SIMONČIČ, Barbara, OREL, Boris, VILČNIK, Aljaž, SPREIZER, Helena. Biodegradability of cellulose fabric modified by imidazolidinone. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2007, 69(3), 478−488, doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2007.01.003.
11. KLEMENČIČ, Danijela, SIMONČIČ, Barbara, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, OREL, Boris. Biodegradation of silver functionalized cellulose fibres. Carbohydrate Polymers, 2010, 80(2), 426−435, doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2009.11.049.
12. BLACKBURN, R. S. Biodegradable and sustainable fibres. England : Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2005, 464.
13. CHANDRA, R., RUSTGI, Renu. Biodegradable polymers. Progress in Polymer Science, 1998, 23, 1273−1335, doi: 10.1016/S0079-6700(97)00039-7.
14. DESAI, A. J., PANDEY, S. N. Microbial degradation of cellulose textiles. Journal of Scientific and Industrial Research, 1971, 30, 598−606.
15. ISO 11721-1:2001 – Textiles-Determination of the resistance of cellulose-containing textiles to micro-organisms – Soil burial test- Part 1: Assessment of rot-retardant finishing. SIST, Ljubljana, 2001.
16. ISO 11721:2003 – Textiles-Determination of the resistance of cellulose-containing textiles to micro-organisms – Soil burial test- Part 2: Identification of long term resistance of a rot retardant finish. SIST, Ljubljana, 2003.
17. 17   RIJAVEC, Tatjana, RAFFAELLI, Dubravka, SFILIGOJ – SMOLE, Majda, BUKOŠEK, Vili. Textilne surovine: osnove. Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2000, 145.
18. WARNOCK, Mary, DAVIS, Kaaron, WOLF, Duane, GBUR, Edward. Soil burial effects on biodegradation and properties of three cellulosic fabrics. AATCC Review, 2011, 11(1), 53−57.
19. FRISONI, Giovanna, BAIARDO, Massimo, SCANDOLA, Mariastella. Natural cellulose fibres: heterogeneous acetylation kinetics and biodegradation behavior. Biomacromolecules, 2001, 2(2), 476−482, doi: 10.1021/bm0056409.
20. TOMŠIČ, Brigita, SIMONČIČ, Barbara, VINCE, Jelica, OREL, Boris, VILČNIK, Aljaž, FIR, Mojca, ŠURCA VUK, Angela, JOVANOVSKI, Vasko. The use of ATR IR spectroscopy in the study of structural changes of the cellulose fibres. Tekstilec, 2007, 50(1−3), 3−15.
21. WANG, Wei, LIU, Jie, CHEN, Guanjun, ZHANG, Yingshu, GAO, Peiji. Function of a low molecular weight peptide from Trichoderma pseudokoningii S38 during cellulose biodegradation. Current Microbiology, 2003, 46, 371−379, doi: 10.1007/s00284-002-3864-9.
22. HULLEMAN, S. H. D., VAN HEZENDONK, J. M., VAN DAM, J. E. G. Determination of cystallinity in native cellulose from higher plants with diffuse reflectance Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Carbohydrate Research, 1994, 261(1), 163−172, doi: 10.1016/0008-6215(94)80015-4.
23. SEN, K. M., WOODS, J. M. The structure of jute: I. The two-fold function of lignin. Biochimica et Biophysica Acta, 1949, 3, 510−517, doi 10.1016/0006-3002(49)90123-7.
24. SAHOO, K. Prafulla, MOHAPATRA, Roomky, SAHOO, Anusmita, DEBSARKAR, Nandalal, SWAIN, K. Sarat. Characterization, biodegradation, and water absorbency of chemically modified tossa variety jute fiber via pulping and grafting with acrylamide. International Journal of Polymer Analysis and Characterisation, 2005, 10(3-4), 153−167, doi: 10.1080/10236660500397845.
25. DAY, Arnaud, RUEL, Katia, NEUTELINGS, Godfrey, CRONIER, David, DAVID, Helene, HAWINKS, Simon, CHABBERT, Brigitte. Lignification in the flax stem: evidence for an unusual lignin in bast fibres. Planta, 2005, 222(2), 234−245, doi: 10.1007/s00425-005-1537-1.
26. JOHNSON, N. A. G., WOODA, E. J., INGHAMA, P. E., MCNEILA, S. J. MCFARLANEA, I. D. Wool as a technical fibre. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2003, 94(3-4), 26−41, doi: 10.1080/00405000308630626.

Tehniška Univerza v Liberecu, Fakulteta za tekstilno tehnologijo, Oddelek za oblačilno tehnologijo, Liberec, Republika Češka 

Izvirni znanstveni članek
Prispelo 02-2014 • Sprejeto 04-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:
Dr. Viera Glombikova
Telefon: +420 485353124
E-pošta: viera.glombikova@tul.cz

Izvleček

Raziskava je osredinjena na učinek sublimacijskega tiska na učinkovitost spodnjega perila. Analizirali smo dve skupini poliestrnih pletiv. Spremembe v treh skupinah lastnosti so bile raziskane pred uporabo sublimacijskega tiska in po njej, in sicer trpežnost (pretržna sila in raztezek, odpornost proti abraziji in pilingu), fiziološke lastnosti (prepustnost vodne pare, zračna prepustnost) ter barvna obstojnost (odpornost proti drgnjenju, domačemu in industrijskemu pranju, proti znojenju). Raziskali smo tudi spremembe v strukturi pletiv (debelina in gostota) med vročim tiskom brez uporabe barvil (brez prenosa tiska na substrat) ter z uporabo barvil, da bi analizirali učinek vpliva pogojev, pod katerimi poteka tiskanje (še posebno pritisk in temperatura), na udobje med nošenjem potiskanih tkanin. Rezultati raziskave so pokazali, da testirani materiali izpolnjujejo zahteve v smislu barvne obstojnosti proti drgnjenju, domačemu in industrijskemu pranju in proti znojenju v zelo veliki meri (ocena 5). V primeru odpornosti na abrazijo in piling je material ravno tako pokazal dobro obstojnost. Zračna prepustnost se je za obe vrsti pletiv znižala za približno 40 % v primerjavi z vrednostjo, ki smo jo dobili pred tiskanjem. Mehanske lastnosti so se zvišale za približno 8 %, kar je bila posledica večje gostote šivov in zmanjšanja debeline. To je posledično vodilo v zmanjšanje poroznosti materiala za pogoje, pod katerimi poteka tiskanje, predvsem zaradi vpliva pritiska in temperature, ki sta prisotna pri stroju za vroči tisk.

Ključne besede: sublimacijski tisk, spodnje perilo, fiziološko udobje, barvna obstojnost, mehanske lastnosti, spremembe v strukturi

Viri

1. Advanced Innovative Technologies. Heat transfer printing – sublimation [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 04. 07. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.aitequipment.com/cgi-bin/db_searchz.cgi?database=dbpg_contactus.exm&template=dbpg_contactus_tmplt.htm&0=1>.
2. JESSE J. HEAP & SON, Inc. Introduction to heat transfer printing [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 05. 07. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.jesseheap.com/heat-transfer-printing-introduction.html>.
3. WU, Yu-Ju, DILWORTH, J. K., GRANT, G. Light fastness of heat transfer on polyester blend fabrics. V NIP25: 25th International Conference on Digital Printing Technologies and Digital Fabrication. Louisville, United States, 2009, 118–121.
4. HUNTING, Brad, DERBY, Stephen, PUFFER, Raymond, LOOMIE, Leo. Thermal Ink Jet Printing of Textiles. V Recent Progress in Ink Jet Technologies II. Edited by Eric Hanson. Springfield, Virginia : Society for Imaging Science and Technology, 1999, 568 −573.
5. WU, Yu-Ju, GRANT, G. Key factors affecting color reproduction on polyester fabrics using heat transfer printing. V 63^rd Annual Technical Conference of the Technical Association of the Graphic Arts. Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, 2011, 118–134.
6. WU, Yu-Ju, BAI, R. Color reproduction capability on 100% cotton fabrics using dye-sublimation heat transfer printing. V Proceedings of the NIP 27th International Conference on Digital Printing Technologies and 7^th International Conference on Digital Fabrication. Minneapolis, United States, 2011, 41–44.
7. SWANSON, Joanna. Heat transfer printing method [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 22. 07. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.ehow.co.uk/about_6599022_heat-transfer-printing-method.html>.
8. PEARSON, M. The Key Elements of Sublimation Heat Transfer Printing. Advanced Innovative Technologies [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 22. 07. 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.aitequipment.com/cgi-bin/db_searchz.cgi?database=dbpg_resources.exm&template=dbpg_resources_tmplt.htm&0=2>.
9. ABD EL-THALOUTH, I., EL-KASHOUTI, M. A., HEBEISH, A. Novel methods for heat transfer printing of polyester. Acta Polymerica, 1982, 33(6), 385–387, doi:  10.1002/actp.1982.010330613.
10. GUO, L. H., Zhang, M. Y., Guo, X. H., Zhu, Q. Research on the color models of the heat transfer printing paper. V International Conference on Chemical Engineering and Advanced Materials. Changsha, 2011, 1332–1335, doi: 10.4028/www.scientific.net/AMR.236-238.1332.
11. HALLAS, Geoffrey, CHOI, Jae – Hong. Synthesis and properties of novel aziridinyl azo dyes from 2-aminothiophenes-Part 2: Application of some disperse dyes to polyester fibres. Dyes and Pigments, 1999, 40(2–3), 119–129, doi: 10.1016/S0143-7208(98)00032-1.
12. KIATKAMJORNWONG, Suda, PUTTHIMAI, P., NOGUACHI, H. Comparison of textile print quality between inkjet and screen printings. Surface Coatings International Part B: Coatings Transactions, 2005, 88(1), 25–34, doi: 10.1007/BF02699704.
13. MIKUŽ, Mašenka, ŠOSTAR-TURK, Sonja, FORTE-TAVČER, Petra. Printing and design in the processes of textile inkjet printing, Tekstilec, 2008, 51(1-3), 7–29.
14. HAVELKA, Antonin, KUS, Zdenek. The transport phenomena of semi-permeable membrane for sport cloth. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2011, 23(2/3), 119–130, doi: 10.1108/09556221111107315.
15. HAVENITH, George. Heat balance when wearing protective clothing. The annals of occupation hygiene, 1999, 43(5), 289−296, doi: 10.1093/annhyg/43.5.289.
16. GLOMBIKOVA, Viera, KOMARKOVA, Petra. To investigate the effect of dye-sublimation printing on the performance of underwear. V 8^th International Conference TEXCI 2013. TU Liberec, Czech Republic, 2013.

¹ Univerza v Mariboru, Fakulteta za strojništvo, Smetanova 17, 2000 Maribor
² IOS, d.o.o., Inšitut za okoljevarstvo in senzorje, Beloruska 7, 2000 Maribor 

Pregledni znanstveni članek
Prispelo 01-2014 • Sprejeto 04-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:
prof. dr. Aleksandra Lobnik
Telefon: +386 2 220 79 12
E-pošta: lobnikaleksandra@gmail.com

Izvleček

Napredni funkcionalni nanomateriali so z razvojem nanotehnologije postali bistven sestavni del industrijskih materialov in s tem osnova gospodarskih dejavnosti, kjer sta zahtevani inovativnost in visoka dodana vrednost proizvodov. Razvoj visokofunkcionalnih nanomaterialov je močan vir potencialnih inovacij in napredka, posebno v tekstilni industriji, ki le tako lahko ohrani primat v Zahodni Evropi in svetu. Tako je razvoj funkcionalnih tekstilij z vgrajenimi naprednimi visokofunkcionalnimi nanomateriali pomembna tržna niša z veliko vgrajenega znanja in uporabo sodobnih tehnologij. Vgradnja visokofunkcionalnih nanomaterialov v tekstilne izdelke in oblačila daje tekstilijam nove želene specifične funkcionalne lastnosti, ki lahko povečajo udobnost in kakovost življenja, varnost in omogočijo lažji nadzor zdravja. Čeprav napredni visokofunkcionalni nanomateriali dajejo tekstilnim izdelkom nove funkcije, se morajo pri tem ohraniti vse bistvene lastnosti tekstilije, kot so nosljivost, upogibljivost, mehkost, elastičnost, lahkost, pralnost itd. Danes se v tekstilni industriji uporabljajo predvsem visokofunkcionalni anorganski in polimerni nanodelci, nanonanostrukturni materiali, nanokompoziti in nanovlakna za doseganje funkcionalnih lastnosti, kot so antistatične, protimikrobne, samočistilne in ojačitvene. V tem prispevku bomo podrobneje predstavili nanomateriale, ki se najpogosteje uporabljajo za razvoj funkcionalnih tekstilij s poudarkom na hidrofobnih, superhidrofobnih in hidrofilnih lastnostih tekstilij z izboljšanimi možnostmi obarvanja ter s povečano odpornostjo na bledenje barv, UV zaščitnih in ognjevarnih tekstilij.

Ključne besede: nanomateriali, hidrofobne tekstilije, hidrofilne tekstilije, UV zaščitne tekstilije, ognjevarne tekstilije, superhidrofobnost

Viri

1. Paschen, Herbert, COENEN, Christopher, FLEISCHER, Torsten, GRUNWALD, Reinhard, OERTEL, Dagmar, REVERMANN, Christoph. Nanotechnologie. TA-Projekt. Endbericht. Karlsruhe: Büro für Technikfolgenabschätzung beim Deutschen Bundestag. TAB-Arbeitsbericht 92, 2003, 447.
2. Yu, Minghua, GUOTUAN, Gu, WEI-DONG, Meng, FENG-LING, Qing. Superhydrophobic cotton fabric coating based on a complex layer of silica nanoparticles and perfluorooctylated quaternary ammonium silane coupling agent. Applied Surace Scence, 2007, 253(7), 3669–3673, doi: 10.1016/j.apsusc.2006.07.086.
3. Xue, Chao-Hua, JIA, Shun-Tian, ZHANG, Jing, TIAN, Li-Qiang. Superhydrophobic surfaces on cotton textiles by complex coating of silica nanoparticles and hydrophobization. Thin Solid Films, 2009, 517(16), 4593–4598, doi: 10.1016/j.tsf.2009.03.185.
4. CHEN, Xianqiong, LIU, Yuyang, LU, Haifeng, YANG, Hengrui, ZHOU, Xiang, XIN H. John. In-situ growth of silica nanoparticles on cellulose and application of hierarchical structure in biomimetic hydrophobicity. Cellulose, 2010, 17, 1103−1113, doi: 10.1007/s10570-010-9445-3.
5. MONTAZER, Majid, PAKDEL, Esfandiar. Functionality of nano titanium dioxide on textiles with future aspects: Focus on wool. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology C: Photochemistry Reviews, 2011, 12(4), 293−303, doi: 10.1016/j.jphotochemrev.2011.08.005.
6. Yang, Hongying, Zhu, Sukang, Pan, Ning. Studying the mechanisms of titanium dioxide as ultraviolet-blocking additive for films and Fabrics by an improved Scheme, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano maja 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://ningpan.net/publications/51-100/88%20polymer.pdf>.
7. XUE, Chao-Hua, YIN, Wei, ZHANG, Ping, ZHANG, Jing, JI, Peng-Ting, JIA, Shun-Tian. UV-durable superhydrophobic textiles with UV-shielding properties by introduction of ZnO/SiO₂ core/shell nanorods on PET fibers and hydrophobization. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, 2013, 427, 7−12, doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2013.03.021.
8. XU, Bi, CAI, Zaisheng, WANG, Weiming, GE, Fengyang. Preparation of superhydrophobic cotton fabrics based on SiO₂ nanoparticles and ZnO nanorods arrays with subsequent hydrophobic modification. Surface & Coatings Technology, 2010, 204(9-10), 1556–1561, doi: 10.1016/j.surfcoat.2009.09.086.
9. Yadav, A., VIRENDRA, Prasad, KATHE, A. A., RAJ, Sheela, YADAV, Deepti, SUNDARAMOORTHY, C., VIGNESHWARAN, N. Functional finishing in cotton fabrics using zinc oxide nanoparticles. Bulletin of Material Sciences, 2006, 29(6), 641−645.
10. GONG, Maogang, XU, Xiaoliang, YANG, Zhou, LIU, Yuanyue, LV, Haifei, LV, Liu. A reticulate superhydrophobic self-assembly structure prepared by ZnO nanowires. Nanotechnology, 2009, 20(16), 65602−65609, doi: 10.1088/0957-4484/20/16/165602.
11. EDNA, Richard, ARUNA, S. T., BASU, J. Bharathibai. Superhydrophobic surfaces fabricated by surface modification of alumina particles. Applied Surface Science, 2012, 258(24), 10199–10204, doi: 10.1016/j.apsusc.2012.07.009.
12. CAI, Yibing, WU, Ning, WEI, Qufu, ZHANG, Kai, XU, Qiuxiang, GAO, Weidong, SONG, Lei, HU, Yuan. Structure, surface morphology, thermal and flammability characterizations of polyamideg/organic-modified Fe-montmorillonite nanocomposite fibers functionalized by sputter coating of silicon. Surface and Coatings Technology, 2008, 203, 264–270, doi: 10.1016/j.surfcoat.2008.08.076.
13. Beyer, Günter. Short communication: Carbon nanotubes as flame retardants for polymers. Fire and Materials, 2002, 26(6), 291−293, doi: 10.1002/fam.805.
14. Li, Dapeng, Sun, Gang. Coloration of textiles with self-dispersible carbon black nanoparticles. Dyes and Pigments, 2007, 72(2), 144−149, doi: 10.1016/j.dyepig.2005.08.011.
15. SOM, Claudia, NOWACK Bernd, WICK, Peter, KRUG, Harald. Nanomaterialien in Textilien: Umwelt-, Gesundheits- und Sicherheits-Aspekte Fokus: synthetische Nanopartikel, 2010, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano junija 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <www.empa.ch/nanosafetextiles>.
16. Som, Claudia, Halbeisen, Marcel, Köhler, Andreas. Integration von Nanopartikeln in Textilien Abschätzungen zur Stabilität entlang des textilen Lebenszyklus, 2009, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano junija 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: http://www.empa.ch/plugin/template/empa/*/78398/—/l=1.
17. Bickel, Manfred, Som, Claudia. Nano textiles – Grundlagen und Leitprinzipien zur effizienten Entwicklung nachhaltiger Nanotextilien, 2011, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano junija 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <www.empa.ch/plugin/template/empa/*/113719>.
18. Lobnik, Andreja, LAKIĆ, Marijana, KOŠAK, Aljoša, TUREL, Matejka, KORENT UREK, Špela, GUTMAHER Andreja. Uvod v nanomateriale za uporabo v tekstilijah. Tekstilec, 2013, 56(2), 137–144.
19. Wang, Shutao, Jiang, Lei. Defnition of Superhydrophobic States. Advanced Materials, 2007, 19(21), 3423–3424, doi: 10.1002/adma.200700934.
20. Tadmor, Rafael. Line energy and the relation between advancing, receding and Young contact angles. Langmuir, 2004, 20(18), 7659–7664, doi: 10.1021/la049410h.
21. Wenzel, N. Robert. Resistance of solid surfaces to wetting by water. Industrial and Engineering Chemistry, 1939, 28(8), 988–994, doi: 10.1021/ie50320a024.
22. Chen, Wei, FADEEW, Y. Alexander, HSIEH, Meng Che, ÖNER, Didem, YOUNGBLOOD, Jeffrey, McCarthy, J. Thomas. Ultrahydrophobic and ultralyophobic surfaces: some comments and examples. Langmuir, 1999, 15(10), str. 3395–3399, doi: 10.1021/la990074s.
23. Cassie, A. B. D., Baxter, S. Wettability of porous surfaces. Transactions of the Faraday Society, 1944, 40, 546–551, doi: 10.1039/TF9444000546.
24. KHALIL-ABAD, Mohammad Shateri, YAZDANSHENAS, E. Mohammad. Superhydrophobic antibacterial cotton textiles. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2010, 351(1), 293−298, doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2010.09.003.
25. WU, Hui, ZHANG, Rui, SUN, Yao, LIN, Dandan, SUN, Zhiqiang, PAN, Wei, DOWNS, Patrick. Biomimetic nanofiber patterns with controlled wettability. Soft Matter, 2008, 4, 2429−2433, doi: 10.1039/B805570J.
26. Patankar, A. Neelesh. Mimicking the lotus effect: influence of double roughness structures and slender pillars. Langmuir, 2004, 20, 8209–8213, doi: 10.1021/la048629t.
27. Cheng, Yang-Tse, Rodak, E. Daniel. “Is the lotus leaf superhydrophobic?” Applied Physics Leters, 2005, 86, 144101, doi: 10.1063/1.1895487.
28. XUE, Chao-Hua, CHEN, Jia, YIN, Wei, JIA, Shun-Tian, MA, Jian-Zhong. Superhydrophobic conductive textiles with antibacterial property by coating fibers with silver nanoparticles. Applied Surface Chemistry, 2012, 258(7), 2468−2472, doi: 10.1016/j.apsusc.2011.10.074.
29. Bae, Geun Yeol, MIN, Byung Gil, JEONG, Young Gyu, LEE, Sang Cheol, JANG, Jin Ho,  KOO, Gwang Hoe. Superhydrophobicity of cotton fabrics treated with silica nanoparticles and water-repellent agent. Journal of Colloid and Interfacee Science, 2009, 33, 170–175, doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2009.04.066.
30. SHIRGHOLAMI, A. Mohammad, KHALIL-ABAD, Mohammad Shateri, KHAJAVI, Ramin, YAZDANSHENAS, E. Mohammad. Fabrication of superhydrophobic polymethylsilsesquioyane nanonanostructures on cotton textiles by a solution-immersion process. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2011, 359(2), 530−535, doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2011.04.031.
31. JOSHI, M., BHATTACHARYYA, A., AGARWAL, N., PARMAR, S. Nanostructured coatings for super hydrophobic textiles. Bulletin Materials Science, 2012, 35(6), 933−938.
32. LOBNIK, Aleksandra, GUTMAHER, Andreja. Postopek za površinsko modifikacijo netkanih tekstilij s sol-geli : odločba o podelitvi patenta : patent št. SI21963 (A), 2006-08-31. Ljubljana: Urad Republike Slovenije za intelektualno lastnino, 2006. 
33. SIMONČIČ, Barbara, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena. Nanokompozitna apretura sol-gel. Tekstilec, 2013, 56(2), 159–165.
34. VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, JERMAN, Ivan, OREL, Boris, JAKŠA, Gregor, KOVAČ, Janez, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Multifunctional superhydrophobic/oleophobic and flame-retardant cellulose fibers with improved ice-releasing properties and passive antibacterial activity prepared via the sol-gel method. Journal of Sol-gel Science and Technology, 2014, 1–15, doi: 10.1007/s10971-014-3294-8.
35. SIMONČIČ, Barbara, HADŽIĆ, Samira, VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena, ČERNE, Lidija, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, JERMAN, Ivan, OREL, Boris, MEDVED, Jožef. Tailoring of multifunctional cellulose fibres with »lotus-effect« and flame retardant properties. Cellulose, 2014, 21, str. 595–605, doi: 10.1007/s10570-013-0103-4.
36. LIU, Yunhong, LI, Guangji. A new method for producing “Lotus Effect” on a biomimetic shark skin. Journal of Colloid and Interface Science, 2012, 388(1), 235−242, doi: 10.1016/j.jcis.2012.08.033.
37. ZHAO, Yan, XU, Zhiguang, WANG, Xungai, LIN, Tong. Superhydrophobic and UV-blocking cotton fabrics prepared by layer-by-layer assembly of organic UV absorber intercalated layered double hydroxides. Applied Surface Science, 2013, 286, 364–370, doi: 10.1016/j.apsusc.2013.09.092.
38. Siegfried, Barbara. NanoTextiles: Functions, nanoparticles and commercial applications, Semester Thesis in the frame of the »Nanosafe-Textiles« project TVS Textilverband, Schweiz and Empa, December, 2007 [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano maja 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.empa. ch/plugin/template/empa/*/78337/—/l=1>.
39. Hegemann, Dirk, Hossain, M. Mokbul, Balazs, J. Dawn. Nanostructured plasma coatings to obtain multifunctional textile surfaces. Progress in Organic Coatings, 2007, 58(2−3), 237−240, doi: 10.1016/j.porgcoat.2006.08.027.
40. Motnikar, Ana. Varovanje tekstilnih izdelkov pri razstavljanju, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano maja 2013]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.etno-muzej.si/files/etnolog/pdf/0354-0316_6_motnikar_varovanje.pdf>
41. SCHINDLER, D. Wolfgang, HAUSER, J. Peter. Chemical finishing of textiles, Cambridge, England : Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2004, 256.
42. Mahltig, B, Haufe, H., BÖttcher, H. Functionalisation of textiles by inorganic sol-gel coatings. Journal of Materials Chemistry, 2005, 15, 4385−4398.
43. MONTAZER, Majid, PAKDEL, Esfandiar, MOGHADAM, Mohammad Bameni. The role of nano colloid of TiO₂ and butane tetra carboxylic acid on the alkali solubility and hydrophilicity of proteinous fibers. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering. Aspects, 2011, 375, 1–11, doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2010.10.051.
44. Krogman, C. K., ZACHARIA, N. S., SCHROEDER, S., HAMMOND, P. T. Automated process for improved uniformity and versatility of layer-by-layer deposition. Langmuir, 2007, 23(6), 3137−3141, doi: 10.1021/la063085b.
45. Vigneshwaran, N., KATHE A. A., VARADARAJAN, P. V., NACHANE, R. P., BALASUBRAMANYA, R. H. Functional finishing of cotton fabrics using silver nanoparticles. Journal of nanoscience and nanotechnology, 2007, 7(6), 1893–1897.
46. Čufar, Andreja, Kristl, Julijana. Varovalni pripravki za sončenje 1.del: UV sevanje, varovalni mehanizmi in UV filtri. Farmacevtski Vestnik, 1994, 45, 71–87.
47. Wolf, Ronni, WOLF, Danny, MORGANTI, Pierfrancesco, RUOCCO, Vincenzo. Sunscreens. Clinics in Dermatology, 2001, 19, 452–459.
48. Bertrand, Faure, SALAZAR-ALVAREZ, German, AHNIYAZ, Anwar, VILLALUENGA, Irune, BERRIOZABAL, Gemma, DE MIGUEL, R. Yolanda, BERGSTRÖM, Lennart. Dispersion and surface functionalization of oxide nanoparticles for transparent photocatalytic and UV-protecting coatings and sunscreens. Science and Technology of Advanced Materials, 2013, 14, 1-23, doi: 10.1088/1468-6996/14/2/023001.
49. Serpone, Nick, Dondi, Daniele, Albini, Angelo. Inorganic and organic UV filters: Their role and Efficacy in sunscreens and suncare products. Inorganica Chimica Acta, 2007, 360(3), 794–802, doi: 10.1016/j.ica.2005.12.057.
50. Ohama, Yoshihiko, Van Gemert, Dionys. Application of titanium dioxide photocatalysis to construction materials, State-of-the-Art Report of the RILEM Technical Committee 194–TDP. New York : Springer, 2011, 48.
51. Serpone, N., Lawless, D., Khairutdinov, R. Subnanosecond relaxation dynamics in TiO₂ colloidal sols. Journal of Physical Chemistry, 1995, 99, 16655–16661, doi: 10.1021/j100045a027.
52. Lawless, D., Serpone, N., Meisel, D. Role of OH radicals and trapped holes in photocatalysis, A pulse radiolysis study. Journal of Physical Chemistry, 1991, 95(13), 5166–5170.
53. Chen, Haihan, Nanayakkara, E. Charith, Grassian, H. Vicki. Titanium Dioxide photocatalysis in atmospheric chemistry. Chemical Reviews, 2012, 112, 5919–5948, doi: 10.1021/cr3002092.
54. RADETIĆ, Maja. Functionalization of textile materials with TiO₂ nanoparticles. Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology C: Photochemistry Reviews, 2013, 16, 62–76, doi: 10.1016/j.jphotochemrev.2013.04.002.
55. OJSTERŠEK, Alenka, KLEINSCHEK, Stana Karin, FAKIN, Darinka. Characterization of nano-sized TiO₂ suspensions for functionalized modification of polyester fabric. Surface and coatings technology, 2013, 226, 68–74, doi: 10.1016/j.surfcoat.2013.03.037.
56. ERDEM, Nilüfer, ERDOGAN, Umit Halis, CIRELI, Aysun Aksit, ONAR, Nurhan. Structural and ultraviolet-protective properties of nano-TiO₂-doped polypropylene filaments. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2010, 115, 152–157, doi: 10.1002/app.30950.
57. LEE, Kyung, LEE, Seungsin. Multifunctionality of poly(vynil alcohol) nanofiber webs containing titnium dioxide. Journal of Applied Polymer Science, 2011, 124, 4038–4046, doi: 10.1002/app.34929.
58. mihailović, darka, ŠAPONJIĆ, Zoran, VODNIK, Vesna, POTKONJAK, Branislav, JOVANČIĆ, Petar, NEDELJKOVIČ, M. Jovan, RADETIĆ, Maja. Multifunctional PES fabrics modified with colloidal Ag and TiO₂ nanoparticles. Polymers for Advanced Technologies, 2011, 22(12), 2244–2249, doi: 10.1002/pat.1752.
59. KATHIRVELU, S., D’SOUZA, Louis, DHURAI, Bhaarathi. UV protection finishing of textiles using ZnO nanoparticles. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 2009, 34, 267–273.
60. BROASCA, G., BORCIA, G., DUMITRASCU, N., VRINCEANU, N.  Characterization of ZnO coated polyester fabrics for UV protection. Applied Surface Science, 2013, 279, 272–278, doi: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apsusc.2013.04.084.
61. ÇAKIR, Acar Burç̧in, BUDAMA, Leyla, TOPEL, Önder, HODA, Numan. Synthesis of ZnO nanoparticles using PS-B-PAA reverse micelle cores for UV protective, self-cleaning and antibacterial textile applications. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochem. Eng. Aspects, 2012, 414, 132–139, doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2012.08.015.
62. Vigneshwaran, Nadanathangam, KUMAR, Sampath, KATHE, A. A., VARADARAJAN, P. V., PRASAD, Virendra. Functional finishing of cotton fabrics using zinc oxide-soluble starch nanocomposites. Nanotechnology, 2006, 17(20), 5087−5095, doi: 10.1088/0957-4484/17/20/008.
63. HEBEISH, Ali, SHARAF, S., FAROUK, A. Utilization of chitosan nanoparticles as a green finishing in multifunctionalization of cotton textile. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2013, 60, 10–17, doi: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2013.04.078.
64. LIANG, Shuyu, NEISIUS, N. Matthias, GAAN, Sabyasachi. Recent developments in flame retardant polymeric coatings. Progress in Organic Coatings, 2013, 76(11), 1642–1665, doi: 10.1016/j.porgcoat.2013.07.014.
65. Hornsby, P. R. The application of fire-retardant fillers for use in textile barrier materials. V Multifunctional Barriers for Flexible Structures. Edited by Sophie Duquesne, Carole Magniez and Giovanni Camino. New York : Springer, 2007,  1–22.
66. Gawish, S. M., RAMADAN, A. M., CORNELIUS, C. E., BOURHAm, M. A., MATTHEWS, S. R., McCORD, M. G., WAFA, D. M., BREIDT, F. New functionalities of PA6,6 fabric modified by atmospheric pressure plasma and grafted glycidyl methacrylate derivatives. Textile Research Journal, 2007, 77(2), 92–104, doi: 10.1177/0040517507076747.
67. DU, Longchao, XU, Guoyong, ZHANG, Yuchuan, QIAN Jiasheng, CHEN, Jinyang. Synthesis and properties of a novel intumescent flame retardent (IFR) and its applications in halogen-free flame flame retardant ethylene propylene diene terpolymer (EPDM). Polymer-Plastics Technology and Engineering, 2011, 50(4), 372–378, doi: 10.1080/03602559.2010.543224.
68. LAOUTID, F., BONNAUD, L., ALEXANDRE, M., LOPEZ-CUESTA J. M., DUBOIS, Ph. New prospects in flame retardant polymer materials: From fundamentals to nanocomposites. Material Science and Engineering: R: Reports, 2009, 63(3), 100–125, doi: 10.1016/j.mser.2008.09.002.
69. WEIL, D. Edward, LEVCHIK, V. Sergei. Flame retardants in commercial use or advanced development in polyurethanes. V Flame retardants for plastics and textiles. New York, ZDA : HANSER Publications, 2009.
70. QU, Hongqiang, Wu, Weihong, ZHENG, Yanju, XIE, Jixing, XU, Jianzhong. Synergistic effects of inorganic tin compounds and Sb₂O₃ on thermal properties and flame retardancy of flexible poly(vinyl chloride). Fire Safety Journal, 2011, 46, 462–467, doi: 10.1016/j.firesaf.2011.07.006.
71. KILIARIS, P., PAPASPYRIDES, C. D. Polymer/layered silicate (clay) nanocomposites: An overview of flame retardancy. Progress in Polymer Science, 2010, 35(7), 902–958, doi: 10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2010.03.001.
72. KUO, Shiao-Wei, CHANG, Feng-Chih. POSS releated polymer nanocomposites. Progress in Polymer Science, 2011, 36(12), 1649–1696, doi: 10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2011.05.002.
73. HRIBERNIK, Silvo, SMOLE Majda Sfiligoj, KLEINSCHEK, Karin Stana, BELE, Marjan, JAMNIK, Janez, GABERSCEK, Miran. Flame retardant activity of SiO₂-coated regenerated cellulose fibers. Polymer degradation and stability, 2007, 92(11), 1957–1965, doi: 10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2007.08.010.
74. Bourbigot, Serge, VANDERHART, L. David, GILMAN, W. Jeffrey, BELLAYER, Severine, STRETZ, Holly, PAUL, R. Donald. Solid state NMR characterization and flamability of styrene acrylonitrile copolymer montmorillonite nanocomposite. Polymer, 2004, 45, 7627−7638, doi: 10.1016/j.polymer.2004.08.057.
75. ZhanG, Sheng, HORROCKS, A. Richard, HULL, Richard, KANDOLA, K. Baljinder. Flammabillity, degradation and structural characterization of fibre-forming polypropylene containing nanoclay-flame retardant combinations. Polymer Degradation and Stability, 2006, 91(4), 719−725, doi: 10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2005.05.023.
76. Devaux, Eric, Rochery, Maryline, Bourbigot, Serge. Polyurethane/clay and polyurethane/POSS nanocomposites as flame retarded coating for polyester and cotton fabrics. Fire and Materials, 2002, 26(4−5), 149−154, doi: 10.1002/fam.792.
77. Marosi, Gy., MARTON, A., SZCP, A., CSONTOS, I., KCSZCI, S., ZIMONYI, E., TOTH, A., ALMCRAS, X., LE BRAS, M. Fire retardancy effect of migration in polypropylene nanocomposites induced by modified interlayer. Polymer Degradation and Stability, 2003, 82, 379−385, doi: 10.1016/S0141-3910(03)00223-4.
78. HUANG, Guobo, LIANG, Huading, WANG, Xu, GAO, Jianrong. Poly(acrylic acid)/clay thin film assembled by layer-by-layer deposition for improving the flame retardancy properties of cotton. Industrial and Engineering Chemistry Research, 2012, 51(38), 12299–12309, doi: 10.1021/ie300820k.
79. LI, Yu-Chin, SCHULZ, Jessica, MANNEN, Sarah, DELHOM, Chris, CONDON, Brian, CHANG, SeChin, ZAMMARANO, Mauro, GRUNLAN, C. Jamie. Flame Retardant behavior of polyelectrolyte-clay thin film assemblies on cotton fabric. ACS Nano, 2010, 4, 3325–3337, doi: 10.1021/nn100467e.
80. APAYDIN, Kadir, LAACHACHi, Abdelghani, BALL, Vincent, JIMENEZ, Maude, BOURBIGOT, Serge, TONIAZZO, Valerie, RUCH, David. Polyallylamine-montmorillonite as super flame retardant coating assemblies by layer-by-layer deposition on polyamide. Polymer Degradation and Stability, 2013, 98(2), 627–634, doi: 10.1016/j.polymdegradstab.2012.11.006.
81. Zhang, Sheng, Horrocks, A. Richard. A review of flame retardant polypropylene fibres. Progress in Polymer Science, 2003, 28(11), 1517−1538, doi: 10.1016/j.progpolymsci.2003.09.001.
82. Bourbigot, Serge, Devaux, Eric, Flambard, Xavier. Flammabillity of polyamide-6/clay hybrid nanocomposite textiles. Polymer degradation and Stability, 2002, 75(2), 397−402, doi: 10.1016/S0141-3910(01)00245-2.

Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana 

Izvirni znanstveni članek
Prispelo 04-2014 • Sprejeto 05-2014 

Korespondenčna avtorica:
prof. dr. Tadeja Muck
Telefon: +386 1 200 32 84
E-pošta: tadeja.muck@gmail.com

Izvleček

Raziskava sega na področje uporabe interaktivne radiofrekvenčne identifikacijske tehnologije (RFID) pri označevanju tekstilij in oblačil. Namen raziskave je bil v realnem okolju proučiti vpliv prisotnosti apreture in vode na delovanje pasivnih ultravisokofrekvenčnih značk (UHF) RFID na različnih vrstah tkanin. Proučena je bila čitljivost značk na suhih in mokrih neapretiranih in apretiranih vzorcih bombažne in poliestrske tkanine. Uporabljena je bila vodo- in oljeodbojna nanokompozitna sol-gel apretura na podlagi fluoroalkil-funkcionalnega oligosiloksana, ki je bila nanesena tako na tkanino kot na značke. Izmerjena je bila frekvenca odčitavanja v odvisnosti od razdalje med značko RFID oziroma značkami, nameščenimi na tkaninah, in anteno čitalnika RFID. Ugotovljeno je bilo, da voda negativno vpliva na delovanje značk UHF RFID, saj le-ta radiofrekvenčno valovanje absorbira. Omočenje ima večji vpliv pri bombažni kot pri poliestrski tkanini. Značke, nameščene neposredno na prvi plasti tkanin, dosegajo najboljše rezultate. Namestitev treh značk zaporedoma druge za drugo med plasti tkanine povzroči vpliv senčenja, posledično pa se tudi zmanjšata število in točnost odčitavanja. Z nanosom vodo- in oljeodbojne apreture se vpliv omočenja zmanjša, posledično pa se izboljša odzivnost značk. Ugotovljeno je bilo tudi, da apretura pozitivno vpliva tako na čitljivost značk v bližnjem polju, to je povprečno maksimalno dolžino odčitavanja, kot na povečanje odzivnosti značk, če so le-te na tkaninah nameščene v obliki prekrivanja.

Ključne besede: značka UHF RFID, standard Gen 2, vodo- in oljeodbojna apretura, bombažna tkanina, poliestrska tkanina

Viri

1. OGRINC, Bernard. RFID v sistemih sledenja proizvodov : diplomsko delo. Ljubljana, 2006, 63.
2. BALOH, Marko. Analiza vpliva materialov pri označevanju živil z nalepkami RFID : diplomsko delo. Ljubljana, 2011, 49.
3. BREZNER, Renato. Uporaba radiofrekvenčne identifikacije (RFID) v Slovenski vojski : diplomsko delo. Celje, 2009, 48.
4. HUNT, V. Daniel, PUGLIA, Albert, PUGLIA, Mike. RFID – A Guide to Radio Frequency Identification. New Jersey : A John Wiley & Sons, Inc., Publication, 2007, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 22. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <ftp://tor.ntu-kpi.kiev.ua/pub/pershin/LIBRARY/BOOKS%20AND%20GOST/BOOKS/_ENGLISH/RFID%20A%20Guide%20To%20Radio%20Frequency%20Identification.pdf>.
5. GS1 Slovenija. Vse o nas [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 1. 6. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.gs1/1/vse-o-nas.aspx>.
6. BOGATAJ, Urška, MAČEK, Marijan, MUCK, Tadeja, KLAJNŠEK GUNDE, Marta. Readability and modulated signal strength of two different UHF RFID tags on different packaging. Packaging technology and science, 2012, 25(7), 373−384, doi: DOI: 10.1002/pts.988.
7. Grafika študijsko gradivo [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 17. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www2.grafika.ntf.uni-lj.si/uploads/media/03_RFID.pdf>.
8. KAVČIČ, Urška, PIVAR, Matej, ĐOKIĆ, Miloje, GREGOR-SVETEC, Diana, PAVLOVIČ, Leon, MUCK, Tadeja. UHF RFID tags with printed antennas on recycled papers and cardboards. Materiali in tehnologije, 2014, 48(2), 261−267.
9. BOLIĆ, Miodrag, SIMPLOT-RYL, David, STOJMENOVIĆ, Ivan. RFID Systems: Research Trends and Challenges. John Wiley & Sons Ltd., 2010, 543.
10. HARDGRAVE, C. Bill. Item-level RFID for apparel: The dillards initiative, 2009, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://itri.uark.edu/91.asp?download=Yes>.
11. MILES, S. Rebecca. Item–level for apparel/footwar: The JC Penney RFID innitiative, 2010, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://itri.uark.edu/91.asp?download=Yes>.
12. O’CONNOR, Mary Catherine. Bloomingdale’s tests item-level RFID, 2009, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.rfidjournal.com/article/view/5160/1>.
13. SWEDBERG, Claire. American apparel adds RFID to two more stores, 2010, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.rfidjournal.com/article/view/7313/1>.
14. WESSEL, Rhea. Indian conglomerate ITC focuses on RFID expansion, 2008, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.rfidjournal.com/article/articleview/4449/1/1/>.
15. O’CONNOR, Mary Catherine. RFID trims costs for retailer of Lacoste, CK, Burberry, 2009, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.rfidjournal.com/article/view/4626/1>.
16. Roll out of avery dennison RFID solution for shirtmaker seidensticker, 2009, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.ibmd.averydennison.com/about/news-rfid-solution-for-seidensticker.asp>.
17. SWEDBERG, Claire. Crystal group uses RFID tags to track garment production, 2007, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu:
18. <http://www.rfidjournal.com/article/view/3788/1>.
19. RFID Profile: Metro Groups Galeria Kaufhof, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.impinj.com/Applications/Case_Studies.aspx#>.
20. CROMHOUT, B. David, HARDGRAVE, C. Bill, ARMSTRONG J. Deborah. RFID Item-level tagging for apparel/footwear: feasibility study, 2008, 6, 7.
21. SUBSTRATES: Background [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://people.ccmr.cornell.edu/~cober/MSE5420/page2/files/iNEMISubstrateFlex0808.pdf>.
22. SCHILTHUIZEN, Steven. Smart textiles enabled by nanotechnology, RFID and sensor technology, 2009, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.scint.nl/docs/Smarttextilesscint.pdf>.
23. RFID world, fabric detection possible in new RFID enabled smart washing machine, 2012, [dostopno na daljavo], [citirano 29. 5. 2012]. Dostopno na svetovnem spletu: <http://www.rfidworld.ca/fabric-detection-possible-in-new-rfid-enabled-smart-washing-machine/808>.
24. SINHG, S. P., McARTNEY, M., SINGH, Jay, CLARKE, R. RFID research and testing for packages of apparel, consumer goods and fresh produce in the retail distribution environment. Packaging Technology and Science, 2008, 21(2), 91–102, doi: 10.1002/pts.782.
25. Mc CARTHY, Ultan, AYALEW, Gashaw, BUTLER, Francis, McDONNELL, Kevin, WARD, Shane. The effects of item composition, tag inlay design, reader antenna polarization, power and tranponder orientation on the dynamic coupling efficiency of backscatter ultra high frequency rdio frequency identification. Packaging Technology and Science, 2009, 22(4), 241–248, doi: 10.1002/pts.849.
26. CLARKE, Robert, TWEDE, Diana, TAZELAAR R. Jeffrey, BOYER K, Kenneth. Radio frequency identification (RFID) performance: The effect of tag orientation and package contents. Packaging Technology and Science, 2006, 19(1): 45–54, doi: 10.1002/pts.714.