Tekstilec 4/2014

Department of Textile Technology, National Institute of Technology, Jalandhar-144011, Punjab, India

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčni avtor:

Dr. Sujit Kumar Sinha

E-pošta: sinhask@nitj.ac.in

Izvleček

Spremembe v strukturi preje odpirajo nove možnosti uporabe. V raziskavi smo strukturo prstanske preje iz mešanice vlaken poliester/polivinil alkohol (PVAL) modificirali z odtopitvijo PVAL-a, pri čemer so preje vsebovale različen odstotek PVAL vlaken. Elastični povratek in koeficient elastične učinkovitosti sta bila za primerjavo izmerjena pred in po odtapljanju PVAL-a. Da bi preučili učinek, smo spremenili tudi finočo vlaken in koeficient vitja. Za preučitev elastičnega povratka so bili poizkusi izvedeni pri 2- in 4-odstotnem raztezku, medtem ko je bil koeficient elastične učinkovitosti izračunan pri uporabi 30 % in 50 % pretržne obremenitve prej. Rezultati t-testa so potrdili znatne razlike v koeficientu elastične učinkovitosti in elastičnem povratku prej, ki so bile modificirane z odstranitvijo PVAL-a. Ugotovljeno je bilo tudi, da finoča vlaken ter koeficient vitja vplivata na elastično obnašanje prej. Modificirane preje so imele izboljšane vrednosti elastičnega povratka.

Ključne besede: elastični povratek, koeficient elastične učinkovitosti, poliesterna in PVAL vlakna, prstanska preja

Viri

1. Structural mechanics of fibres, yarns and fabrics. Edited by J. W. S. Hearle, Grosberg, P., Backer, Stanley. New York : John Wiley and Sons Inc., 1969, 175−207.
2. PLATT, M. Milton. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials. Textile Research Journal, 1950, 20(1), 1‒15.
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6. HAMBURGER, J. Walter. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part I. Development of an elastic performance coefficient in tension. Textile Research Journal, 1948, 18(2), 102‒113, doi: 10.1177/004051754801800204.
7. HAMBURGER, J. Walter. Mechanics of elastic performance of textile materials: Part II The application of sonic techniques to the investigation of the effect of viscoelastic behaviour upon stress-strain relationship in certain high polymers. Textile research Journal, 1948, 18(12), 705‒743, doi: 10.1177/004051754801801201.
8. SETT, S. K., MUKHERJEE, A., SUR, D. Tensile characteristics of rotor and friction spun jute blended yarn. Textile Research Journal, 2000, 70(8), 723‒728, doi: 10.1177/004051750007000810.
9. CHATTOPADHYAY, R., SINHA, S. K. Studies on structural integrity of polyester –cotton friction spun yarn by cyclic extension test. Fibres and Polymers, 2011, 12(2), 268‒274, doi: 10.1007/s12221-011-0268-0.
10. TYAGI, G. K., GOYAL, A., PATNAIK, A. Elastic recovery properties of polyester jet-spun yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2002, 352‒357.
11. TYAGI, G. K., SHARMA, Dhirendra. Performance and low-stress characteristics of polyester-cotton MVS yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 29, 2004, 301‒307.
12. TYAGI, G. K., GOYAL, A., SINGH, A. Effect of add-on finish and process variables on recovery properties of jet-spun polyester yarns. Indian Journal of Fibre and Textile Research, 2004, 29, 44‒48.
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Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 9-2014 • Sprejeto 10-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-pošta: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

Izvleček

V raziskavi je bil proučevan vpliv barvanja s tremi reaktivnimi barvili Avitera SE (rumeno, rdeče in modro) na funkcionalne lastnosti bombažnih tkanin, apretiranih z nanodelci SiO₂, vodo- in oljeodbojno apreturo (FAS) ter kombinacijo obeh (SiO₂ + FAS). Hkrati je bil proučevan tudi vpliv nanesenih apretur na spremembo barve barvanih vzorcev. Prisotnost različnih apretur smo proučevali z vrstično elektronsko mikroskopijo (SEM) in infrardečo spektroskopijo s Fourierjevo transformacijo (FTIR). Vodo- in oljeodbojnost nebarvanih in barvanih apretiranih vzorcev pred pranjem in po njem smo določili z meritvami statičnih stičnih kotov vode in n-heksadekana, kotov zdrsa vode in z ocenami oljeodbojnosti (AATCC 118-1966 T). Barvne lastnosti vzorcev so bile proučevane pred nanosom apretur in po njem, po pranju in dvainsedemdeseturnem osvetljevanju. Prisotnost apreture je bila potrjena tako z rezultati FTIR kot SEM-analize. Superhidrofobne lastnosti so bile dosežene na vseh apretiranih vzorcih in se zaradi predhodnega barvanja niso poslabšale. Kljub nanosu nanodelcev SiO₂ vzorci niso izkazali samočistilnih lastnosti. Nanos vseh apretur je zagotovil oljeodbojnost vzorcev, ki se je na predhodno barvanih vzorcih celo rahlo povečala. Apreture so bile dobro pralno obstojne. Prisotnost apretur je močno vplivala na barvo vzorcev, ne glede na to, ali so bili barvani ali ne. Apretura FAS je povzročila potemnitev in porumenitev vzorcev, medtem ko je apretura SiO₂ vplivala na spremembo barve na modro, rumeno oziroma rdečo. Iz rezultatov barvnih sprememb smo opazili, da so imeli apretirani barvani vzorci zelo slabo barvno obstojnost na osvetljevanje.

Ključne besede: reaktivna barvila, nanodelci SiO₂, FAS, sol-gel, lotusov efekt, oljeodbojnost

Viri 

1. SONG, Junlong, ROJAS, Orlando Jose. Approaching super-hydrophobicity from cellulosic materials: A Review. Nordic pulp & paper research journal, 2013, 28(2), 216-238, doi: 10.3183/NPPRJ-2013-28-02-p216-238.
2. WANG, Shing Dar, LIN, Bai Jun, HSIEH, Chien Cheng, LIN, Chao Chieh. Application of superhydrophobic sol gel on canvas. Applied surface science, 2014, 307, 101-108, doi: 10.1016/j.apsusc.2014.03.173.
3. HEINONEN, Saara, HUTTUNEN-SAARIVIRTA, Elina, NIKKANEN, Juha-Pekka, RAULIO, Mari, PRIHA, Outi, LAAKSO, Jarmo, STORGARDS, Erna, LEVANEN, Erkki. Antibacterial properties and chemical stability of superhydrophobic silver-containing surface produced by sol-gel route. Colloids and surfaces a-physicochemical and engineering aspects, 2014, 453, 149-161, doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfa.2014.04.037.
4. VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, JERMAN, Ivan, OREL, Boris, JAKŠA, Gregor, KOVAČ Janez, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Multifunctional superhydrophobic/oleophobic and flame-retardant cellulose fibres with improved ice-releasing properties and passive antibacterial activity prepared via the sol-gel method. Journal of sol-gel science and technology, 2014, 70(3), 385-399, doi: 10.1007/s10971-014-3294-8.
5. HOEFNAGELS, H. F., WU, D., de WITH, G., MING, W. Biomimetic superhydrophobic and highly oleophobic cotton textiles. Langmuir, 2007, 23(26),13158-13163, doi: 10.1021/la702174x.
6. GHOSH, Nilmoni, SINGH, Amit Vikram, VAIDYA, Ashish Anant. Water-based layer-by-layer surface chemical modification of biomimetic materials: oil repellency. ACS Applied materials & interfaces, 2013, 5(18), 8869-8874, doi: 10.1021/am401766z.
7. LIU, Quanyong, ZHANG, Liqun, JIANG, Lei. Biomimetic preparation of elastomeric fibers with micro/nano structures on the surfaces. Progress in natural science-Materials international, 2012, 22(5), 493-501, doi: 10.1016/j.pnsc.2012.08.002.
8. SAS, Iurii, GORGA, Russell E., JOINES, Jeff A., THONEY, Kristin A. Literature review on superhydrophobic self-cleaning surfaces produced by electrospinning. Journal of polymer science part B – Polymer physics, 2012, 50(12), 824-845, doi: 10.1002/polb.23070.
9. SIMONČIČ, Barbara, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, OREL, Boris, JERMAN, Ivan. Tekstilija kot navdih iz narave. Tekstilec, 2010, 53(10/12), 294-306.
10. VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena, GORJANC, Marija, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, OREL, Boris, JERMAN, Ivan, MOZETIČ, Miran, VESEL, Alenka, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. The surface modification of cellulose fibres to create super-hydrophobic, oleophobic and self-cleaning properties. Cellulose, 2013, 20(1), 277-289, doi: 10.1007/s10570-012-9812-3.
11. GORJANC, Marija, JAZBEC, Katja, MALOPRAV, Anja, GODEC, Petra, FORTE TAVČER, Petra, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Oblikovanje lotosovega efekta« na bombažni tkanini s plazmo, encimi in apreturo sol-gel. Tekstilec, 2012, 55(3), 206-214.
12. OREL, Boris, JERMAN, Ivan, VILČNIK, Andrej, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Sol-gel postopki kot izziv pri proizvodnji tekstilij = Sol-gel processes as a challenge in textile production. V Zbornik prispevkov : 38. simpozij o novostih v tekstilstvu in 3. simpozij o novostih v grafiki, Ljubljana, 21. junij 2007. SIMONČIČ, Barbara (ur.), HLADNIK, Aleš (ur.), JAVORŠEK, Dejana (ur.). Ljubljana : Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, 2007, str. 3–15.
13. YEN, Ming-Shien, KUO, Mu-Cheng and CHEN, Chien-Wen. Characterisation of sol-gel based hybrid silicon dioxide/heteroarylthiazole dyes on polyamide fabric. Coloration technology, 2012, 128(4), 276–282, doi: 10.1111/j.1478-4408.2012.00375.x.
14. VERONOVSKI, Nika, HRIBERNIK, Silvo, SFILIGOJ SMOLE, Majda. Funkcionalizacija tekstilij z nano TiO₂ in SiO₂ prevlekami. Tekstilec, 2008, 51(10-12), 300-318.
15. MAHLTIG, Boris, KNITTEL, Dierk, SCHOLLMEYER, E, BOTTCHER, H. Incorporation of triarylmethane dyes into sol-gel matrices deposited on textiles. Journal of sol-gel science and technology, 2004, 31(1-3), 293-297, doi: 10.1023/B:JSST.0000048006.70681.7c.
16. AĶIT, Aysun Cireli, ONAR, Nurhan. Leaching and fastness behavior of cotton fabrics dyed with different type of dyes using sol-gel process. Journal of applied polymer science, 2008, 109(1), 97–105, doi: 10.1002/app.27284.
17. KISSA, E. Repellent finishes. V Handbook of fiber science and technology: Volume II, Chemical processing of fibers and fabrics: Functional finishes, Part B. New York : Marcel Dekker, 1984, 144–204.
18. SCHRAMM, Christian, RINDERER, Beate. Dyeing and DP treatment of sol-gel pre-treated cotton fabrics. Fibers and polymers, 2011, 12(2), 226-232, doi: 10.1007/s12221-011-0226-x.
19. XU, Lihui, CAI, Zaisheng, SHEN, Yong, WANG, Liming, DING, Ying. Facile preparation of superhydrophobic polyester surfaces with fluoropolymer/SiO₂ nanocomposites based on vinyl nanosilica hydrosols. Journal of applied polymer science, 2014, 131(11), art. no. 40340, doi: 10.1002/app.40340.
20. YIN, Yunjie, WANG, Chaoxia. Sol-gel synthesis and characterizations of organically modified silica coatings on knitted cellulose for fixation applications. Progress in organic coatings, 2012, 73(1), 14-18, doi: 10.1016/j.porgcoat.2011.08.013.
21. GORJANC, Marija in GORENŠEK Marija. Vpliv barvanja bombaža z reaktivnim barvilom na adsorpcijo srebra, Tekstilec, 2011, 54(10-12), 228-237.
22. HOU, Aiqin, YU, Yanhong, CHEN, Huawei. Uniform dispersion of silica nanoparticles on dyed cellulose surface by sol-gel method. Carbohydrate polymers, 2010, 79(3), 578-583, doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2009.09.004.
23. FARAHMANDJOU, Majid, KHALILI, P. Study of nano SiO₂/TiO₂ superhydrophobic self-cleaning surface produced by sol-gel. Australian journal of basic and applied sciences, 2013, 7(6), 462-465.
24. SIMONČIČ, Barbara, HADŽIĆ, Samira, VASILJEVIĆ, Jelena, ČERNE, Lidija, TOMŠIČ, Brigita, JERMAN, Ivan, OREL, Boris, MEDVED, Jožef. Tailoring of multifunctional cellulose fibres with “lotus effect” and flame retardant properties. Cellulose, 2014, 21(1), 595-605, doi: 10.1007/s10570-013-0103-4.
25. OWENS, Frank J., POOLE, Charles P. The physics and chemistry of nanosolids. Hoboken, N. J. : Wiley-Interscience, cop., 2008, 539 str.
26. JELER, Slava, KUMAR, Marko, TIŠLER, Vesna, BOŽIČ, Dušan. Interdisciplinarnost barve. Del 1.: V znanosti. 2001, Maribor : DKS, 384 str.

¹Pokrajinski muzej Ptuj-Ormož, Muzejski trg 1, 2250 Ptuj

²Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 9-2014 • Sprejeto 10-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Prof. dr. Barbara Simončič

E-pošta: barbara.simoncic@ntf.uni-lj.si

Izvleček

Namen raziskave je bil proučiti vpliv prisotnosti protimikrobne apreture sol-gel na podlagi dimetil-tetradecil-[3-(trimetoksisilil)-propil] amonijevega klorida (Si-QAC ) na barvo in barvne obstojnosti bombažne (CO), svilene (SE) in volnene (WO) tkanine, ki se največkrat uporabljajo pri konserviranju-restavriranju zgodovinskih tekstilij. Tkanina CO je bila pobarvana z direktnimi in reaktivnimi barvili ter indigom, tkanina SE s kovinsko kompleksnimi barvili in tkanina WO s kislimi barvili. Uporabljeni so bili rumeni, rdeči in modri barvni toni. Sredstvo Si-QAC je bilo naneseno v dveh naraščajočih koncentracijah. Pobarvani neapretirani in apretirani vzorci tkanin CO, SE in WO so bili umetno osvetljevani v aparatu Xenotest in večkrat zaporedno oprani v Launder-Ometru. Med osvetljevanimi in neosvetljevanimi ter pranimi in nepranimi vzorci so bile določene barvne razlike, ki so bile pozneje statistično obdelane z multifaktorsko analizo variance ANOVA. Iz rezultatov meritev je razvidno, da je prisotnost apreture vplivala na spremembo barve vseh pobarvanih vzorcev. Prisotnost apreture je statistično značilno poslabšala svetlobne obstojnosti obarvanj, ni pa statistično značilno vplivala na pralne obstojnosti obarvanj. Barvne obstojnosti so bile v veliki meri odvisne od strukture barvila.

Ključne besede: naravna vlakna, protimikrobna apretura, vpliv apreture na barvo, pralna obstojnost obarvanj, svetlobna obstojnost obarvanj

Viri

1. TIMAR-BALAZSY, Agnes, EASTOP, Dinah. Chemical principles of textile conservation (Routlege Series in conservation and museology). New York : Routlege, 2011, 443 str.
2. LENNARD, Frances, EWER, Patricia. Textile conservation : advances in practise. Glasgow : Elsevier, 2010, 299 str.
3. SIMONČIČ, Barbara, TOMŠIČ, Brigita. Structures of novel antimicrobial agents for textiles: a review. Textile Research Journal, 2010, 80(16), 1721–1737, doi: 10.1177/0040517510363193.
4. SONG, Le, BANEY, Ronald H. Antibacterial evaluation of cotton textile treated by trialkoxysilane compounds with antimicrobial moiety. Textile Research Journal, 2011, 81(5), 504–511, doi: 10.1177/0040517510380776.
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7. TOMŠIČ, Brigita, SIMONČIČ, Barbara, OREL, Boris, ŽERJAV, Metka, SCHROERS, Hans, SIMONČIČ, Andrej, SAMARDŽIJA, Zoran. Antimicrobial activity of AgCl embedded in a silica matrix on cotton fabric. Carbohydrate polymers, 2009, 75(4), 618–626, doi: 10.1016/j.carbpol.2008.09.013.
8. TOMŠIČ, Brigita, ILEC, Eva, ŽERJAV, Metka, HLADNIK, Aleš, SIMONČIČ, Andrej, SIMONČIČ, Barbara. Characterisation and functional properties of antimicrobial bio-barriers formed by natural fibres. Colloids and surfaces. B, Biointerfaces, 2014, 122, 72−78, doi: 10.1016/j.colsurfb.2014.06.047.
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31. GORENŠEK, Marija, MEDEN, Anton, GORJANC, Marija, RECELJ, Petra. Parameters influencing dyeability of cotton warp at dip-dyeing for jeans. Textile Research Journal, 2008, 78(6), 524–531, doi: 10.1177/0040517507082957.
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¹Istanbul Technical University, Textile Technologies and Design Faculty, Istanbul, Inon. Cad. No. 65, 34437, Turkey
²Pädagogische Hochschule Wien, Institut für Berufsbildung, Mode- und Designpädagogik, Grenzakcerstraße 18, A-1100 Wien, Austria

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčna autorica:

Izr. prof. dr. Simona Jevšnik

E-pošta: simonajevsnik@gmail.com

Izvleček

Računalniške 3D tehnologije so čedalje bolj prisotne na različnih tekstilnih področjih, od konstruiranja in izdelave tkanin in oblačil, virtualne predstavitve človeškega telesa, interaktivnega virtualnega prototipiranja, do virtualnih modnih revij in e-trgovanja. Prispevek podaja pregled pogosteje uporabljenih računalniških metod za simulacijo tekstilij. Razdeljen je na dva dela: v prvem je opisano trenutno stanje uporabe računalniških modelov za simulacijo tekstilij, temu sledi razlaga osnovnih pojmov in potrebnih parametrov za njihovo simulacijo. V drugem delu so predstavljeni pristopi in metode za njihovo izgradnjo. V zaključkih je podan pregled najznačilnejših uporabljenih tehnik in parametrov, potrebnih za definiranje računalniških modelov tekstilij ter smernice nadaljnjega razvoja.

Ključne besede: CAD/CAM v tekstilstvu, simulacije tekstilij, modeli tekstilij

Viri

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¹Busitema University, Uganda, Faculty of Engineering, Department of Textile and Ginning Engineering, P. O. Box 236, Tororo, Busitema, Uganda
²Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Textile Engineering, Department of Material Engineering, Studentská 2, 461 17 Liberec 1, Czech Republic

Izvirni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 10-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčni avtor:

Samson Rwawiire

E-pošta: rbsjunior@gmail.com

Izvleček

Trajnostni materiali, ki so okolju prijazni, in pot do trajnostnega razvoja sta potrebna v svetovnem merilu. Uporaba naravnih rastlinskih vlaken je doživela vzpon v različnih industrijah, še posebno v avtomobilski industriji. Naravna vlakna, kot so vlakna sansevierije in iz navideznega stebla bananovcev, so nam na voljo in imajo dobre mehanske lastnosti, ki jih uvrščajo med kandidate za ojačitev epoksi smol. Predstavljene so dinamične mehanske lastnosti epoksi kompozitov, ojačenih z vlakni sansevierije (Sansevierija trifasciata) in bananovca (Musa sapientum). Na podlagi rezultatov je bilo ugotovljeno, da je optimalna temperatura uporabe epoksi kompozitov, ojačenih s tkaninami iz vlaken sansivierije oziroma vlaken bananovca, do 50 °C. Temperatura steklastega prehoda, T_g, odčitana iz krivulje faktorja mehanskega dušenja (tan δ), je bila 100 °C za epoksi kompozit ojačen s tkanino iz vlaken sansevierije oziroma 120 °C za epoksi kompozit ojačen s tkanino iz vlaken bananovca.

Ključne besede: DMA, Sansevierija trifasciata, vlakna bananovca, Musa sapientum, epoksi kompozit

Viri

1. Global Natural Fiber Composites Market 2014‒2019: Trends, Forecast and Opportunity Analysis. Available on World WideWeb: <http://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/2881528/global-natural-fiber-composites-market-2014‒2019>.
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16. REDDY, G. Ramachandra, KUMAR, M. Ashok, CHAKRADHAR, K. V. P. Fabrication and performance of hybrid betel nut (Areca catechu) short fiber/Sansevieria cylindrical Agavaceae epoxy composites. International journal of materials and biomaterials applications, 2011, 1(1), 6−13.
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18. SREENIVASAN, V. S, RAVINDRAN, D, MANIKANDAN, V and NARAYANASAMY, R. Mechanical properties of randomly oriented short Sansevieria cylindrical fibre/polyester composites. Materials & Design, 2011, 32(4), 2444−2455, doi: 10.1016/j.matdes.2010.11.042.
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¹University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering, Department of Textiles, Snežniška ulica 5, 1000 Ljubljana
²University of Primorska, Faculty of Humanities, Titov trg 5, 6000 Koper

Pregledni znanstveni članek

Prispelo 08-2014 • Sprejeto 11-2014

Korespondenčna avtorica:

Tijana Todorović

Tel. 00 386 41 530 780

E-pošta: tijanaart@gmail.com

Izvleček

Oblačila so neločljiv del človeškega telesa. Povezovanje med umetnostjo in oblačili združuje duhovno in socialno naravo človekovega vedenja, kakor tudi ustvarja metafore in simbolna razmerja v človekovem okolju. Namen takšnega sintetičnega pogleda je pomoč pri razumevanju posameznikovih notranjih svetov. Telo je naša edina podpora in zavetje, na katero se lahko posameznik (ali človeštvo) zanese. Prek oblačil naredi človek prvi korak k neverbalni komunikaciji s svetom, saj oblačila ne kažejo le naše podobe, ampak tudi naš notranji svet. Oblačilo nam pomaga biti opažen. Skozi oblačila vzpostavimo komunikacijo z drugimi osebami, izražamo sprejetje, zavrnitev ali naše družbeno stališče v odnosu do nečesa ljubeznivega, družabnega, moralnega itn. Oblačenje si lahko razlagamo kot prenos informacij med pošiljateljem in prejemnikom prek simbolnih sporočil tako na splošno kot na specifičnem področju kulture oblačenja. Prek takšne oblike odprte komunikacije si skozi način oblačenja ustvarimo individualnost. Sporočila in informacije o nas so vizualno poslani in sprejeti.

Ključne besede: oblačilo in njegov pomen, kultura, subkultura, modno oblačenje, komunikacija, znaki pripadnosti, oblika, funkcija, oblačenje in semiotika

Viri

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